green living | gastronomy | architecture & design | culture & art | shopping | HISTORY
Copenhagen
In addition to being the capital of Denmark, Copenhagen may also classify as the capital of cool. This city continues to write new chapters in its storied history, thanks to an early and ongoing commitment to green living, sustainability and modern architecture. Pair that with world-class culture, food and drink, and it's easy to see why SAS is adding flights to this Danish destination.
The airline is adding a new route from Atlanta this summer, and expanding service from Boston to daily nonstops on an Airbus 350—effectively doubling the seats on that route. This brings the number of U.S. airports with nonstop service to Copenhagen on SAS to nine.
So, go on, book your getaway to this Danish gem, pick up a Copenhagen City Card and hit the ground running with this guide to planning the best ways to explore the city.
Copenhagen and the environment go hand in hand. You have to leave other cities in order to experience the outdoors, but Copenhagen brings the outdoors to the city. Putting sustainability first, residents here choose bikes over cars. In fact, more than half the city’s population rides a bike every day. Act like a local and rent a bike through one of the many bike-share programs and you’ll be pedaling alongside kindergartners, office workers and politicians on their daily commute. There are also bus, train and water taxi routes for getting around this compact city. If you need to stop and rest in nature, there are tons of green oases; with about a quarter of the city covered in parks and gardens, it’s the opposite of a concrete jungle.
Copenhagen is bisected by a swimmable harbor (more on that shortly) and it’s also crisscrossed by canals, so the city has quite a few bridges to help folks get around. What’s notable about this, and you might be able to guess this theme, is that many of these bridges are not big enough for automobiles. These are bike and pedestrian bridges only. Take a stroll or pedal across The Circle Bridge or The Bicycle Snake on the harborside as well as Lille Langebro in central Copenhagen. Be prepared if crossing Dronning Louises Bridge on Nørrebro—it's one of the most heavily trafficked cycling stretches in Denmark, with more than 40,000 cyclists daily.
Getting around
Copenhagen raises eyebrows (in a good way) when it comes to its harbor water. As in, it is so clean that you can literally jump in the city’s harbor and go swimming without thinking twice. Over the past few years, the city has invested a hearty amount of funds to improve both wastewater treatments and the sewer system to make the harbor environment cleaner, all to benefit its people. Relax in one of the many public harbor baths like Islands Brygge or Sandkaj or float over to La Banchina. This harborfront café and restaurant, with its own designated swimming zone, sells homemade baked goods and coffee.
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Open all year round, Gro Spiseri is a rooftop restaurant in the middle of an urban farm in Østerbro; you’ll sit at a communal table inside a greenhouse surrounded by plants inside and outside, as you share plates with fellow patrons. (There’s a maximum of 25 people in the space.) With the goal of reducing food waste, the menu depends on what is available from local farmers. For a similar experience, consider Øens Have, an urban farm restaurant in Refshaleøen.
For a quick pastry pick-me-up as you stroll or bike around the city, check out Juno The Bakery in Århusgade. The brainchild of former noma cook, Emil Glaser—who was missing the cardamom rolls of his youth in Sweden—Juno’s tasty treats also include sourdough bread and buns as well as pistachio croissants. Hart Bageri, a bakery partnership between noma and the head baker of San Francisco's Tartine, is another go-to for sourdough and Danish pastries.
Reffen Street Food Market in Refshaleøen has 40 food stalls and bars (and 2,500 seats so there is room for everyone, particularly during the busy summer season). At this harborside spot, you’ll find global offerings like Everest Nepalese Food, Manila Street BBQ N’ Bao and The Real Greek. Another option to cure hunger pangs is TorvehallerneKBH food market, located between the Dronning Louises Bridge—which crosses the Copenhagen lakes—and Nørreport Station. This glass-walled market sells fresh fruit and vegetables as well as ready-to-eat items like pastries, sandwiches, pizza and coffee. When you’re in there, be sure to try smørrebrød, a traditional Danish open-faced sandwich that comes in many varieties, at Hallernes Smørrebrød. If you're in the city center, head to Restaurant Møntergade for what many locals consider some of the finest Danish open-faced sandwiches.
Innovative & award-winning
Along with topping liveable city lists, Copenhagen also gets a nod internationally when it comes to its cuisine. In 2023, 15 restaurants received 26 Michelin stars. Alchemist is currently rated No. 5 on the 2023 "World's 50 Best Restaurants" list. Another well-known Copenhagen establishment, noma, has been named the world’s best restaurant five times. (Hurry and go soon before noma shuts its doors in 2024.)
While reservations may be hard to get for the Michelin-starred restaurants (adding yourself to their wait lists is recommended), the foodie scene in Copenhagen is so diverse that you won’t go hungry. There are plenty of affordable fine-dining experiences, street food markets, bakeries and traditional Danish restaurants worth a visit.
Copenhagen Contemporary is one of Scandinavia’s largest exhibition venues for contemporary art. Occupying a former B&W welding hall in Refshaleøen, this massive building showcases installation art, performance art and monumental video works. Essentially, this is where you go when you want to feel art from the top of your head to the tips of your toes. Current exhibits include “Kapwani Kiwanga: The Length of the Horizon”, exploring social mechanisms and power dynamics; and “James Turrell: Aftershock”, an immersive installation that envelops guests in light and color. Both are running through the end of 2024.
The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, simply known as The Glyptotek, showcases the private collection of Carl Jacobsen, the son of the founder of Carlsberg Breweries. More than 10,000 artifacts are here, consisting primarily of works of art and archaeological objects from the ancient civilizations of Egypt, Greece and Rome; Etruscan culture, as well as Danish and French art of the 19th century. Head up to the roof terrace to enjoy a drink paired with views of historic buildings; every Thursday, experts and curators give short talks at the bar as well.
Designmuseum Danmark, as the name implies, focuses on design then, now and in the future. Housed in the former Royal Frederik’s Hospital, a public facility built in 1751, the museum recently completed a renovation. Current exhibits include “Powerful Patterns” which focuses not only on the aesthetic but also design may carry religious, symbolic or political messages, and “Little Table, Cover Thyself!” which delves into the history of table settings over time. Both exhibits run through December 2025.
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Shopping
What was once a track used for driving cattle in and out of the city is now one of the most prominent streets of Copenhagen. Bredgade (meaning “Broad Street”) is particularly interesting if you like Danish design. Designmuseum Denmark is on this street, in addition to numerous art galleries, such as Galerie Mikael Andersen and Martin Asbæk Gallery. And, if you’re looking to spruce up your own home with Danish design, there are a few furniture shops on this road too, like KLASSIK Moderne Møbelkunst. (Don’t worry, you can also order their furniture online if you become addicted.)
Located between the laid-back neighborhoods of Vesterbro and Frederiksberg, Værnedamsvej is a French-infused cozy street, sometimes viewed as the city’s version of Paris. Families with children congregate here and locals hang out on the weekends. Indulge in French delicacies at Le Gourmand or buy some cheese at Helges Ost (to obviously pair with wine from Juul’s Wine and Spirits).
Gammel Kongevej is another main shopping street in Frederiksberg; Garodkin sells premium menswear while Sofie Schnoor Flagship Store sells edgy-cool outfits for both women and girls. Have a bite to eat at Auren’s Deli, an authentic Danish delicatessen and bar with fresh ingredients and a menu that changes daily.
With the mindset of quality over quantity, Copenhagen is the sort of place where you truly can come home with a unique souvenir (and be the envy of your friends). There are flagship stores for Danish designers in the center of town, but explore further into the city’s neighborhoods. Not only will you see different sides of the city, but you’ll also find shopping gems from up-and-coming designers.
Jægersborggade in the Nørrebro neighborhood has undergone a transformation from dodgy to hip. This small residential street is now home to around 40 art galleries, an underground wine bar, jewelry designers and vintage clothes shops. Stop by Karamelleriet for a sugar fix of handmade caramels and check out Karamiker Inge Vincents Studio Shop of ceramics or Ladyfingers handmade jewelry.
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If you prefer to keep yourself dry, you can rent an eight-person GoBoat and soundlessly drift around Copenhagen’s harbor; these environmentally-friendly boats have electric engines recharged by solar panels. One way to meet fellow travelers or locals is to go social sailing with Hey Captain, where the goal is not only to sail past spots around the city, but also to encourage interaction and camaraderie among strangers. If kayaking is more your thing, you can rent from Green Kayak for free in exchange for collecting any trash you see to help keep the harbor waters clean.
Deer Park, or Dyrehaven, is Denmark’s national forest and about a 20-minute train ride north of Copenhagen; you can catch a train to Klampenborg Station from any city center station. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Deer Park has been left practically untouched for hundreds of years. The grounds are full of small lakes, open landscapes and more than 2,000 free-range deer roaming around. Visitors come here to picnic, jog, ride bikes and even ride horses.
The layout of the park is a time capsule as it hearkens back to the days of the Danish royalty's par force hunting in the 1600s. Hounds would chase a stag around the park, so the roads are linked in star-shaped trail systems that made it easier for the hunters to keep track of the chase. The King's hunting lodge, The Hermitage, is still in the heart of the park.
Combine Shakespeare with a UNESCO World Heritage Site by visiting Kronborg Castle, the setting for “Hamlet.” (A Shakespeare Festival even takes place each August in an open-air theater just across the moat, with the castle as the backdrop.) Dating back to 1420, Kronborg Castle in Helsingør (Elsinore) was a symbol of strength and power in the narrowest part between Sweden and Denmark, as well as a great example of Renaissance architecture. Daily tours are available to see Frederick II’s ballroom, the castle’s stunning tapestries and even the statue of Holger the Dane, an important national symbol, in the basement. To get here, rent a car or take the train to Helsingør (Elsinore) station as it's about 45 minutes away from Copenhagen.
Trace the path from Vikings to royals as you walk along cobblestoned streets and look at ancient castles and palaces. Whether you visit the museum at Amalienborg Palace or just take a selfie outside, it’s worth stopping by to look at the home of the Danish royal family. Denmark is home to one of the world’s oldest monarchies and these four identical palaces in an octagonal courtyard date back to the 1750s. The Royal Guard changes every two hours, with a complete change of the guard at noon every day. If a raised flag is seen at Christian XIII’s Palace, that means the king is at home. The Marble Church, also known as Frederik's Church, stands right next door with the largest church dome in northern Europe.
Along the harborfront, there are plenty of architectural masterpieces to look at, such as The Opera House, The Royal Playhouse and The Black Diamond. Do more than just observe these structures; treat yourself by going inside for a tour or to attend various performances or concerts. Another gem in the area, The BLOX Building is the epicenter of the World Capital of Architecture celebrations with a number of activities in the Danish Architecture Center. Visit the exhibits inside to get a closer look at modern design.
Then there’s CopenHill, a.k.a. Amager Bakken, which stands as an architectural landmark despite being a facility that turns waste into energy. Copenhagen managed to make this a recreational destination as well, covering the building with a year-round artificial ski and snowboard slope, complete with a café and an après-ski bar. Hikers are also welcome to climb to the top for some of the best views of the city.
In a nod to the forward thinking of the Danes, UNESCO-UIA named Copenhagen the World Capital of Architecture for 2023, a title the city holds until 2026. Rather than being imposing, Danish design is more about being useful and improving life for the locals (and visitors). Key elements found in both old and new architecture around the city include light, water, open spaces and sustainability.
One example of this is Konditaget Lüders, an urban activity park located on the roof of a multi-story parking lot in Nordhavn. It’s both a place you can bring kids to play and one where adults can work out, with options like box jumps, trampolines, swings and a climbing spiral. Benches are also available if you just want to sit and enjoy the rooftop views of the harbor or the strait between Denmark and Sweden. Nordhavn is full of architecture and design studios worth visiting as well.
Flourishing scene
Endless choices
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For the people
Fun zones
With the goal of bringing a diverse experience to the most diverse neighborhood in Copenhagen, Superkilen opened in Nørrebro in 2012. Popular with families, skateboarders and visitors wanting cool Instagram shots, this colorfully-designed park is divided into three areas: The Red Square has a café and music, The Black Market has benches and a fountain and The Green Park is for picnics and walking the dog. Head to one of the world’s oldest amusement parks for another cultural experience. Tivoli Gardens, which opened in 1843 in the city center, hosts concerts as well as ballet and theater performances. Of course, don't miss its rollercoasters (including a wooden one known as “Rutschebanen” or The Mountain Coaster), children’s rides or manicured gardens.
Happiness and creativity must go hand in hand, as Copenhagen is full of artists, whose creations you'll find in furniture and clothing or new exhibition spaces popping up around the city. Keep your eyes peeled when you visit for new arrivals on the scene, but traditional museums here still hold court as well.
is a breath of fresh air
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Architecture & design
Manon Les Suites | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Værnedamsvej | Photo credit: Mellanie Gandø
Kihoskh | Photo credit: Simon Bang
Vesterbro District | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Rosenborg Castle | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Nørrebro neighbourhood | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
The Bicycle Snake | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Christianshavn | Photo credit: Thomas Høyrup Christensen
Superkilen Park | Photo credit: Thomas Høyrup Christensen
The Circle Bridge | Photo credit: Martin Auchenberg
Canal in Christianshavn | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Islands Brygge Harbour Bath | Photo credit: Astrid Maria Rasmussen
Restaurant Nærvær | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Islands Brygge Harbour Bath | Photo credit: Astrid Maria Rasmussen
GoBoat | Photo credit: GoBoat
Green Kayak | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Hart Bakery | Photo credit: Mellanie Gandø
Reffen Street Food Market
Photo credits: Lukas Bukoven (left); Reffen - Copenhagen Street Food (right)
Gro Spiseri | Photo credit: Giuseppe Liverino
Konditaget Lüders | Photo credit: Rasmus Hjortshøj
Konditaget Lüders | Photo credit: Rasmus Hjortshøj
CopenHill | Photo credit: Astrid Maria Rasmussen
The BLOX Building (left); The Black Diamond (right)
Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
The Glyptotek | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Designmuseum Danmark | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Designmuseum Danmark | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
The Glyptotek | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
The Glyptotek | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
The Glyptotek | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Superkilen (left); Tivoli Gardens (right)
Photo credits: Daniel Rasmussen; Martin Auchenberg
Plant København | Photo credit: Thomas Høyrup Christensen
Jægersborggade
Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Helges Ost | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
The Audo | Photo credit: Mario Depicolzuane
Kronborg Castle | Photo credit: Daniel Rasmussen
Amalienborg Palace | Photo credit: Thomas Høyrup Christensen
Kronborg Castle | Photo credit: Lasse Bruhn
The Hermitage| Photo credit: Peter Leschly
Photo credit: Thomas Høyrup Christensen
green living | gastronomy | architecture & design | culture & art | shopping | HISTORY
green living | gastronomy | architecture & design | culture & art | shopping | HISTORY
green living | gastronomy | architecture & design | culture & art | shopping | HISTORY
green living | gastronomy | architecture & design | culture & art | shopping | HISTORY
green living | gastronomy | architecture & design | culture & art | shopping | HISTORY