magical cities | young country, long history | culinary marvels | natural beauty
Malta moved me:
When our editorial team put Malta on its 2025 Best Bets list – as one of nine must-visit destinations for the coming year – it made sense to me. Malta, after all, evokes something exotic, something far-flung, something beguiling. But beyond that, as for most American travelers, Malta was a mystery to me. An intriguing, enchanting, beautiful destination, to be sure. But an enigma, nonetheless.
This is the story of my first visit to the historic trio of islands in the Mediterranean that, for millennia, have seduced prophets, knights and warriors, and, these days, lures travelers, like me, who seek a special place that moves them.
I visited in early December, when a few passing showers interrupted otherwise sunny, comfy days. The summer crowds were long gone, which I liked. And for this Southern Californian, getting there was part of the adventure: I connected via London, though many more cities offer even shorter stopovers (including a new route on Aer Lingus via Dublin). Malta is an easy 90-minute ferry ride from Sicily, too. The two official languages are Maltese – it sounds like a blend of Italian, French and Arabic to me – as well as English. And for any first-timer, hiring a licensed local tour guide to help put centuries of history and culture into perspective is a must. For me, the curated recommendations from VIP Tours Malta (ask for Glorianne Mizzi by name!) was an invaluable introduction to a place I now look forward to revisiting very soon.
The island of Malta is dotted with beautiful cities – more like charming towns, really – that are equally remarkable and distinct.
Valletta is the capital of Malta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was crowned the City of Culture in 2018. Set along the shores of the Grand Harbour and erected by knights in the 16th century, the city spreads out from a buzzy pedestrian promenade and features a fascinating network of fortifications, gardens and palatial buildings. Valletta exudes stunning European and Mediterranean influences; around several corners, it was like strolling in Nice or Venice.
a first-timer's tale
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Magical cities
Young country, long history
Culinary marvels
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Mdina
Church of St Nicholas, Siġġiewi
Fort St. Angelo
St. John's Co-Cathedral
Tartarun
Pastizzi
Markus Divinus winery
The Grand Harbour
Mistra Bay
The Blue Grotto Viewpoint
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Valletta
Fort St. Angelo
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Mistra
Mdina is known as a gorgeous fortified city in the northern region of the island of Malta. Only 250 people live here, and they’re the only ones allowed to drive a car inside its walls. This makes Mdina notoriously quiet (it's known locally as "The Silent City") and walkable, almost like a snapshot of a once-Phoenician colony, and Malta’s original capital even, frozen in time. That could be why it's a favorite filming backdrop for movies and TV series. Noblemen lived here in the late 1800s, and several of their estate homes are being brought back to life today. Casa Gourgion is a splendid, years-long family refurbishment project that just reopened as a museum.
Siġġiewi is replete with winding streets and rich architecture that exudes the historic Northern African and Middle Eastern influences on Malta. It’s built on a plateau, offering vast views. And walking the streets in December drove one important point home: the city’s patron saint is St. Nicholas, and he makes regular appearances in the weeks leading up to Christmas Day.
Malta’s a pretty young nation, actually: it gained independence from the UK in 1964, after 164 years of rule, and became a republic in 1974. It is a hotbed of history that goes back thousands of years, though, and some of my favorite stops brought that history to life.
Ħaġar Qim, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a megalithic complex of temples that dates back more than 5000 years, making it one of the oldest religious sites on the planet. “Imagine building this with your bare hands,” Ms. Mizzi tells me as we walk through the weathered entrance, referring to the limestone slabs that can weigh up to 20 tons. Located on the southern stretch of the island, and a stone’s throw from a network of caves overlooking the Mediterranean known as the Blue Grotto, Ħaġar Qim is a remarkable testament to human ingenuity.
Fort St. Angelo is now home, today, to Frere Jean-Louis, one of the highest-ranking member of the Knights of John. The religious warriors settled on Malta in 1530 and remain active to this day; there are 14,000 Knights around the world today, including 3,000 in the U.S., serving various humanitarian causes. Frere Jean-Louis was gracious enough to offer a guided tour of Fort St. Angelo, originally built as a castle in the medieval period; he’s spearheading a museum on site, to open soon, that’ll trace the Knights’ fascinating history. A visit to this bastioned fort offers glorious views of the Grand Harbour and, across the water, the city of Valletta.
St. John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta is one of the most stunning churches I’ve ever visited. Astoundingly, it’s made of limestone but gilded entirely in 24-karat gold. It was built by the Knights shortly after their arrival on Malta, and the many side chapels represent the many countries the Knights came from, like Portugal, France and Germany. Amazing artwork here, too, including centuries-old tapestries. But what really caught my eye is the original “Beheading of St. John the Baptist” painting by Caravaggio that hangs in a side room; the biggest work he ever created – it measures 12 feet by 17 feet – is also the only one he ever signed.
As a true Mediterranean destination, the cuisine on Malta is pervasively fresh and seasonal, although with its own special blend of flavors and traditions.
Aside from the Principality of Monaco, there are more Michelin restaurants on Malta per capita than anywhere else in the world, with more than 40 eateries either starred or recommended by the internationally renowned guide. The eating, to say the least, is phenomenal. ION Harbour is Malta’s only two Michelin star restaurant, set atop the new, luxe Iniala Harbour House hotel, and with food divined by Chef Simon Rogan; the sweeping water views help elevate the multi-course tasting menu, which is presented inside a sealed envelope and doled out by a masterful staff. One of the most memorable meals I’ve ever had. My meal at Michelin-recommended Tartarun, in the seaside town of Marsaxlokk, was an homage to the maritime influences on Maltese cuisine; the just-caught red snapper enveloped in sea salt and baked for 40 minutes melted in my mouth.
My visit to Marilu’s in Siġġiewi was my introduction to Malta’s ultimate street food: pastizzi. The traditional savory pastry is soft and buttery and flaky and delicious, stuffed either with ricotta cheese or mashed peas. It’s a staple among street vendors and on restaurant menus. You cannot come to Malta and not have pastizzi. My visit to the city of Siġġiewi included a visit to the lovely eatery, Marilu’s, where pastizzi are a best-seller, and where the team used recipes passed down over generations to make the delectable treat. I think I did pretty well: not one pastizz was left unsavored.
Malta’s wine industry is small but mighty. There are only 13 vineyards on the island, planted across 2000 acres. These are small, family-owned enterprises that grow grapes during an oft-hot growing season to produce wines that are complex and flavorful. I loved the wines at Markus Divinus, a boutique project where winemaker Mark Borg employs the help of his wife and teenage son to produce stunning merlot, syrah and sangiovese, as well as wines from native Maltese grapes, like ġellewża & girgentina. Most Maltese wine does not leave the island, so it’s well worth seeking them out at restaurants across the island.
The Grand Harbour is stunning – a sweeping body of water that opens to the Mediterranean and welcomes a variety of vessels each day, including catamarans that make daily 90-minute sailings from Sicily to bring day-trippers to Malta. Valletta offers beautiful views from the harbor’s northern edge, with landmarks like Fort St. Angelo to the south; you can take a quick ride on ferries from one end to the other. Thanks to Tinsel Town, the mouth of the harbor has gained global acclaim: this is where director Ridley Scott recreated Rome’s Colosseum for his Gladiator films, and where a slew of other blockbusters have been filmed.
Mistra Bay on Malta’s northern coast, played a strategic role in World War II, when the English trying to ward off Nazis on the attack built a series of fortifications. These are idyllic vantage points now, offering spectacular views from the towering cliffs. Our afternoon walk from Mistra took us along the gorgeous Millieha countryside, with views of tiny St. Paul’s Islands, where the disciple is believed to have become shipwrecked while on his way to Rome in 60 AD.
The Blue Grotto Viewpoint was the perfect stop after my visit to Ħaġar Qim – it was sunset time. The vistas from here are amazing, especially when sunlight bounces off the azure waters and underwater flora, and then lights up a craggy complex of caverns. In warmer months, visitors swim, dive and snorkel here, and boat tours for an up-close peek at the caves are popular. This is a perfect selfie spot.
Malta lived up to – no, surpassed – this first-timer’s expectations. This is a destination well worth adding onto your own next visit to Europe.
The Grand Master’s Palace features 450 years of history: it was originally built by the Knights as the palace of their Grand Master, became a royal residence during British rule and, today, houses the office of Malta’s president. Most of the spectacular building, in the heart of downtown Valletta, is open to visitors, with the Palace Armoury being the most impressive attraction of all. It is one of the largest collections of armor in the world – a showcase of the knights’ elaborate weaponry not only as implements of battle but as symbols of fashion. Ms. Mizzi tells me, “Think of the people who crafted this armor as the Louis Vuittons of their day!”
The Grand Master's Palace
Ħaġar Qim
Grand Harbour
magical cities | young country, long history | culinary marvels | natural beauty
magical cities | young country, long history | culinary marvels | natural beauty
magical cities | young country, long history | culinary marvels | natural beauty