Malta - June 2024

walking in a movie | 3 islands, 3 mini-vacations | next level for history | best time to go

Malta

After landing in the country, one of the first stops on Eric's itinerary was the walled city of Mdina. Known as "The Silent City", Malta's original capital is car-free, save for those of the 250 residents who call it home. Positioned on a plateau that surveys much of the island, Mdina is steeped in history, tracing its settlement origins back as far as Imperial Rome. According to Eric, that historical feeling is palpable as you walk along the narrow, winding cobbled streets past ageless buildings and artfully adorned churches that make the city a veritable outdoor museum. "You feel like you've been transported a thousand years back in time," he said. "There was a really cool ambience, and it felt like you're walking in a movie."

The many facets of

in collaboration with:

BACK TO THE TOP

"It was like walking in a movie"

"There was so much variety in a small country"

"It's next level for history"

"It was a perfect time to go"

Plan your trip

Mdina

Blue Hole at sunset

Blue Lagoon (left); Comino Caves (right)

Saluting Battery in Valletta (left); D'Amato Records (right)

Citadel streets

That cinematic feeling may stem from the fact that Malta is a favorite of film location scouts, setting the scene for Gladiator, Troy, Assassin's Creed, Napoleon and, most recently, Gladiator 2, which wrapped up filming late last year. Several spots around the islands were stand-ins for King's Landing during season 1 of the HBO hit series Game of Thrones, including the stone bridge that takes visitors up to Mdina's towering Baroque entrance gate. To amp up the visual spectacle, Eric recommends walking around the city close to sunset. "I've never really photographed anything quite like it," he said, noting that the buildings are all built from locally sourced limestone. "The buildings have this uniform color, but the color you see changes during the day as the light changes. What starts as a white-ish yellow becomes a more saturated yellow-orange color, almost like a honey hue, as you get to the golden hour. It is just really beautiful to see."

Mdina was just one of many dramatic vistas that Eric was able to capture during his visit—from a stunning sunset over the popular Blue Hole diving site on Gozo to the striking blue crystalline waters in the coves of Comino to the craggy sea cliffs that rise hundreds of feet above the Mediterranean. For Eric, it was a must to get out on the water, not only to explore the sister islands of Gozo and Comino, about three miles by ferry from Malta, but to see them from another angle. “You got a real sense of how dramatic the coastline truly is.”

“It was really fun as a photographer to have so much variety in one location,” said Eric, noting that the country’s small size [it’s one-tenth the size of Rhode Island] made it easy to explore. “There’s cool opportunities for street photographers to capture daily life in an Old World setting, but then also dramatic nature shots of the cliffs and coves from the water. You don’t want to come back from vacation with a bunch of photos that all look the same.” In just four days, Eric and Kayley were able to island-hop by ferry over to Gozo and Comino for a dose of Mediterranean, take in an array of experiences across the main island of Malta that ranged from sipping wine at sustainable vineyard to a guided oceanside cliff hike, and finish their trip with a proper wander in the capital city of Valletta on a leisurely last day. "With the three islands, you could have three little mini-vacations," Eric explained.

Their tour included a stop at the Blue Lagoon, the island's most popular beach, known for its clear blue water and white sand. Visiting in spring meant the beach was less crowded, but they also stopped at Santa Marija Bay, a quieter sandy spot located nearby that is a good alternative if you're visiting in the busier summer months. The couple returned to Gozo in the afternoon to explore this rural, relaxed island. A popular place for the Maltese to spend a long weekend, Gozo's laid-back vibe was easy for the visitors to pick up and endorse. "Everyone was really friendly," Eric said. "It felt like no one was in a rush to do anything and they were just ready to enjoy the day."

Their day included some legendary historic stops (more on that in a bit) and a hike in Wied il-Għasri, a lush valley on the northern coast of Gozo that leads to a secluded inlet perfect for seaside picnicking or sunbathing. The next day, Eric and Kayley took a second hike—this one decidedly above sea level. Along with their guide from MC Adventure, they traversed the cliffs along Malta's west coast, a trek that Eric called "one of the highlights of the trip." "We went to this isolated part of the island that only locals would know about," he said. "The whole time you're on the edge of a cliff with a dramatic drop-off hundreds of feet down to the ocean. Below you are little bays and sea caves. We didn't see a single person the entire hike. It was epic."

If "epic" is what Eric and Kayley were after on this vacation, Malta delivered on that—quite literally. "The amount of history in Malta surprised me," said Eric. "I've been to historic places in Europe, but this just took it to another level." Gozo's Ġgantija Archaeological Park takes visitors to another millennium, as the UNESCO World Heritage Site predates the Pyramids. Local legend has it that this temple complex was built by giants (Ġgantija is derived from the Maltese word for "giant"). With some of the limestone boulders weighing over 50 tons, that myth of mammoth proportions begins to carry some weight. Overlooking the red sands of Ramla l-Ħamra, one of Gozo's best beaches, is Calypso's Cave, alleged to be the place where the nymph Calypso held the hero Odysseus prisoner for seven years in Homer's epic The Odyssey. While you can no longer go into the cave for safety reasons, it provides a beautiful vantage point to admire Ramla Bay and the coast.

The walk through the ages continues in the capital of Valletta—the entire city holds a UNESCO World Heritage designation. Founded in the 16th century by the Knights of St. John, this is the beating heart of Malta—where the medieval mixes with the modern. You'll find everything here from Caravaggio's famous painting The Beheading of John the Baptist (finished in 1607) to the world's oldest record shop (D'Amato Records, est. 1885). You'll go to dinner at a restaurant located in a 17th-century palazzo (Gracy's Brasserie). Time is kept by a twice-daily firing of a cannon (at midday and 4 p.m.), harkening back to the Great Siege of 1565, when the Ottomans attempted to invade the fortified city. All this to say that Valletta is best explored on foot with a loose agenda and a pastizzi in hand (a Maltese pastry filled with ricotta or mushy peas). For Eric and Kayley, their final day in Malta was spent wandering the city. "Everything is just so walkable," Eric said. "You have tons of restaurants, you can walk to the harbor and take the ferry to the different towns in the area. You can post up in the Three Cities area [Senglea, Cospicua and Birgu] and call it a home base for the trip."

For Eric, the Grand Master's Palace was a must-see. "Even if you're not that into history, it's worth going for the sheer awe factor," he said. He was "blown away" by the different types of weapons and armor on display in the Armoury, considered one of the best collections in the world. St. John's Co-Cathedral was another showstopper for Eric. "I tend to look for beauty outside in landscapes," he said, "but the inside of the cathedral was incredible." There's spectacular artistry above you—a barrel ceiling adorned with eighteen frescoes depicting the life of St. John the Baptist—and below you, the marble floor is made up of 400+ tombstones from knights buried here, not to mention the aforementioned 12x17-foot painting by the Italian master. And to finish off the Baroque bling, "there was gold everywhere," Eric said. "I was in awe."

Eric and Kayley visited Malta in the spring, before the summer high season. Eric said that traveling during the "shoulder season" (April-May or September-October) enabled them to capture moments that they wouldn't have been able to experience otherwise. "In Mdina, you'd turn down these narrow streets and find little pockets where it's just you walking along in this ancient city," he said. "It was a really cool experience." It also allowed them to interact more with the locals. "You could tell that the Maltese people are very proud of their history and heritage," Eric said. "They enjoy the fact that they've had influences from so many different cultures, which have formed this unique cultural melting pot."

That collage of cultures was especially evident at mealtime. "Each meal we had something a little different," Eric said. "It was a mashup of the different Mediterranean regions that impact the food scene in Malta." The couple enjoyed pescetarian cuisine across the islands that included flavors from Italy, Spain and Greece, spices from North Africa and lots of fresh seafood. "When I travel, I don't want to eat the same thing at every meal, so it was great to have so many options with their unique Maltese twist," Eric explained. That included fresh fruits and vegetables from the organic garden at a family-run boutique hotel (Mulberries), alfresco pizza and pasta amid the Old World vibes of Mdina (Trattoria AD 1530) and fresh fish prepared "the true Mediterranean way" within sight of the sea (Terrazzo and Ember at Sea in Gozo, Roots in Marsaxlokk).

When asked if they had tips for travelers thinking of Malta, Eric was quick to suggest hiring a tour guide for at least part of the trip. "Our guide Audrey was so valuable give context to what we were seeing in Gozo and Valletta," he said, adding that she spoke four languages. "There is so much history, and having our guide added an extra layer to the trip." That said, he mentioned that they never felt out of place—even in the smaller villages or more rural parts of the islands. "It was very easy to travel," Eric said, mentioning that he felt his parents, who—he was quick to say—aren't seasoned travelers, could visit without a problem. When asked to sum up what stood out to him about the experience, Eric was effusive. "You have the coastal experience, the beaches, the boating. There's the outdoor activities like hiking, kayaking and snorkeling. Then it's almost unlimited for a history buff with so many historic sites and cathedrals." "There's a little bit for every traveler."

T he saying goes that "a picture is worth a thousand words," and if that’s the case, then Eric Rubens has a lot to say about Malta. The travel photographer was captivated by the island nation on a recent trip this spring to the Mediterranean, where he spent four days exploring the historic cities, quaint villages, hidden coves and coastal cliffs with his wife, Kayley. While there, they experienced a country that has formed out of a milieu of the many cultures—from ancient times (Phoenicians and Romans) to medieval (Arabic, Sicilian and the Order of the Knights of St. John) to colonial (French and British) to modern day—that have called this strategically located archipelago home and left their unique imprint on shaping Malta. The mashup was evident in three ways: the meals Eric and Kayley ate, from dining in decadent digs to seafood served in a simple seaside setting; the lineup of languages they heard while sipping coffee at a café that first opened in 1837; and the places they visited—including centuries-old UNESCO World Heritage sites and modern-day backdrops for hit movies and TV shows. Read on for more about their experience in Malta, and see the stunning visuals Eric captured while he was there.

Mdina

Eric Rubens is a California-based travel photographer who has been to 48 countries and feels most inspired around golden hour. This was his first time visiting Malta and he was eager to see what his camera could capture. Read on for his recommendations.

Valletta (left); Comino (center); Gozo (right)

For Eric and Kayley, their day exploring the sister islands of Gozo and Comino felt like a "true Mediterranean experience." After taking the fast ferry to Gozo, Eric and Kayley took a boat tour with Outdoor Explorers around the small island of Comino to check out the picturesque coves and beaches that make this such a popular day trip for sunseekers. The early start was key. "I highly recommend going early in the morning," Eric said. "We pulled into the first cove in Comino and it was amazing to be in such a beautiful place without a lot of people there."

Comino

Wied il-Għasri

Hiking with MC Adventure on Malta's west coast

Ramla Beach

Ġgantija Archaeological Park

Not to say there wasn't plenty that captured Eric's keen eye outside in Valletta, from colorful street scenes in the narrow cobbled streets to the perfect panorama from the Upper Barrakka Gardens, which "has this incredible vantage point over the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities." They also became big fans of Valletta's ferry network. "The ferry experience is so cool because you can hop on at these little towns along the coast in Malta and you get to cruise on the water past all of these historic buildings," Eric explained. "It's a much more scenic way to get around the Three Cities area than being on a highway."

Scenes from Valletta

The Grand Master's Palace

Ember at Sea (left); Trattoria AD 1530 (right)

Terrazzo

Blue Grotto (left); Ta Pinu Sanctuary (center); Comino Tower (right)

walking in a movie | 3 islands, 3 mini-vacations | next level for history | best time to go

Gozo

Comino

Valletta

Scenes from Valletta

Ember at Sea

Trattoria AD 1530

Ta Pinu Sanctuary

Blue Grotto