Phoenix | Travelzoo

Phoenix

where Sonoran Desert splendor is in season

Choose your own desert adventure

Something for every culture lover, too

Low-impact

Amped-up activity

Phoenicians may call the next few months “winter.” It is, after all, how the calendar labels the time between December 21 and March 20. But with high temperatures that range from the upper 60s to the upper 70s—and city- and Sonoran Desert-scapes that blossom under (almost) perpetually sunny skies—the season should really consider rebranding. Perhaps it should be “pre-spring” or “resort season,” to borrow from the fashion world. Or “festive season,” which applies as much to the general mood as to the holidays themselves. Whatever you wind up calling this period, however, experiencing it here will change your perspective on winter break. Read on for the best ways to do so, then plan your own wondrous winter escape to Phoenix.

Though adrenaline junkies unquestionably thrive here in the Sonoran Desert, immersing yourself into the local landscapes can be profoundly mellow, too. One of the gentlest (and prettiest) possible intros is the 140-acre Desert Botanical Garden, laced by interpretive trails that range from the Plants & People of the Sonoran Desert Loop to the Desert Wildflower Loop. Walk the latter, and you'll find that we weren’t speaking just figuratively about the season's blossoming desertscape: Orange poppies, crimson chuparosa and other attention-grabbing blooms start coming out in late winter. On select December nights—specifically, Las Noches de las Luminarias—thousands of traditional paper lanterns and twinkling lights bestow a magical glow on the Garden. And for good measure, December marks the beginning of Chihuly in the Desert (through June 19), when the iconic glass artist’s installations add to the otherworldliness of the pathways. You can also catch Chihuly's work on a walking tour of Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright's former Scottsdale home. And bear in mind, the Desert Botanical Garden is just the beginning of the barrier-free trail hotspots you’ll find throughout Phoenix. Other excellent options include the Judith Tunell Accessible Trail at South Mountain Park and Preserve; the Penny Howe Barrier-Free Trail at North Mountain Park and the Barrier-Free Nature Trail at Reach 11 Recreation Area.

If the trails of the Desert Botanical Garden feel like a great starter course, but you’re ready to up the adventure ante, you need not look far: The larger urban desert preserve that houses the Garden—Papago Park—is hiking and biking heaven. In fact, Double Butte Loop (a reference to the park’s signature, surreal ancient sandstone formations) is beloved among mountain bikers and hikers alike. But arguably the best-known hike in the park is Hole-in-the-Rock Trail (another reference that makes perfect sense when you see the namesake feature). A quick (five to 10-minute) uphill walk, this trail leads to one of the city's loveliest sunset lookouts, though the view of the lagoon-and-palm oasis below is worthwhile any time of day. Also note that Papago Park is home to its own accessible trails, such as the Elliot Ramada Loop Trail. Meanwhile, the same spot that’s home to the Judith Tunell Accessible Trail—South Mountain Park and Preserve—offers such a variety of terrain that mountain bikers flock here, too. There are miles of singletrack to choose from, with particularly gnarly stretches on the National and Geronimo Trails. Hikers seeking their own equivalent of gnarly—and major panoramic payoff to boot—should head up Camelback Mountain via the Echo Canyon Trail or Piestewa Peak via Summit Trail #300.

A slice of paradise

Most people assume—quite correctly, as we’ll get into soon—that the Mexican food must be amazing in Phoenix, not even 200 miles north of the border. But unless you’re a follower of the foodie celebrity world, what may come as a surprise is that the nation’s tastiest pizza may, by all accounts, be right here in the desert southwest—specifically at Pizzeria Bianco. After everyone from Oprah to Rachael Ray proclaimed chef Chris Bianco’s flagship home to the best slice in the US, NPR noted that some critics have gone so far as to declare this the best pizza on earth. Little wonder that The New York Times’ recently released Restaurant List for 2021—subtitled “the 50 places in America we’re most excited about right now”—includes Bianco’s latest enterprise: a historic downtown market building repurposed as a trattoria named Tratto. The menu relies on ingredients that aren’t simply local and seasonal, but what “farmers and millers and artisans bring us from their farms and ranches on a weekly basis.” So while the menu is ever-changing, "there will always be a whole young chicken from Two Wash Ranch in the winter, simply grilled with lemon and bay," says Bianco, adding that "among the three house-made pastas from locally grown and milled desert durum, you might see cavatelli with black walnuts, pecorino and chiltepin [an indigenous chile] or bucatini with spigarello and garlic."

Finds for every food lover

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DESERT ADVENTURES

RETREATS

Most surprising to first-timers

When you think of the desert, water features aren’t exactly the first things that come to mind. But Phoenix is actually home to lakes, lagoons and rivers—some perfect for adventuring. For starters, there's the Tempe Town Lake, where you can kayak, SUP or paddleboat (not to mention the biking and scooting you can do around the water’s edge). Then there’s the Salt River, where winter paddling can come with bonus wildlife viewing (wild horses, if you’re lucky). But probably the biggest surprise to the uninitiated is a whole waterworld just 45 minutes from downtown: Lake Pleasant Regional Park, where a historic dam and the surrounding wilderness makes for all sorts of recreational possibilities. Not only is there a lot to do on the water’s surface (speed boating, jet skiing, sailing, kayaking); you can also explore what lies beneath on fascinating dive trips: The lake is home to swim-through rock formations, large schools of fish, a submerged historic dam and all manner of other sunken treasure (if you think a cool wreck dive is impossible in the middle of the desert, Lake Pleasant's Epic Dive Charters will happily dispel you of that notion). Whatever you do here, keep an eye out for some of the most interesting locals around the water’s edge: wild burros, bald eagles and bobcats.

Performing arts

For all the live entertainment you can find at the city’s museums, it is, of course, just the start of what’s on offer here. The Phoenix Theatre Company, the oldest arts organization in the state and one of the oldest in the nation, is effectively celebrating the big 1-0-0. Last year, aka the lost year, was technically the centennial for the company that began life in 1920 as the Phoenix Players. Among the hits on the winter calendar: Singin’ in the Rain, with performances on select afternoons and evenings throughout February. Another celebrated local arts group commemorating a lost 2020 anniversary: Black Theatre Troupe, whose 50th season is functionally this year. If you’re in town before December 19, try to catch a performance of Black Nativity by Harlem Renaissance icon Langston Hughes—or if you’re here later in the season, a performance of A Soldier’s Play, which earned Charles Fuller a Pulitzer Prize for drama in 1982. Meanwhile, The Nash may be turning only 10 in 2022, but the young club has already been proclaimed one of the top jazz venues in the country. Named for and creatively steered by the internationally renowned Phoenix jazz drummer Lewis Nash, this hotspot has drawn legendary performers since day one, when Wynton Marsalis kicked off the opening night show. This winter will bring—among other treats—a decidedly local spin on a traditional holiday music blowout: The Sonoran Serenade Big Band Christmas Show on December 20. Music lovers should also take note of the festivals that come to town in winter. There’s the Innings Festival (February 26-27), which blends performances by the likes of Foo Fighters and Tame Impala with culinary demos, food vendors and (as the festival’s name hints at) cameos by pro ball players who are in town for spring training. Then there’s the M3F Music Festival, aka the McDowell Mountain Music Festival (March 4-5) a community- and charity-minded event whose 2022 lineup includes everyone from Leon Bridges to ZHU.

As amazing as Silvana Salcido Esparza’s food is, it’s hardly her only iconic contribution to the local culture. In 2010, she worked with a number of artists—the very big deal El Mac among them—to launch the Calle 16 Mural Project: a grand display of Mexican pride along the stretch of 16th Street that’s home to her Barrio Café (itself the perfect canvas for eye-popping murals). In fact, the chef has become so widely associated with the street art scene in Phoenix that the media has published guides to her favorite murals (which, for the record, are mainly found in the Oak Street Alley between 14th and 15th Streets). Another well regarded street artist whose work you’ll find at Barrio Café—Lalo Cota—was also one of 12 artists who helped create 1 ½ Street, a mural alley that explores everything from indigenous themes to iconic cacti in the Roosevelt Row. But this downtown arts district is home to other major murals that are invisible at street level and deserving of their own side trips. See for yourself at From the Rooftop Bar & Lounge at the Cambria hotel, where Ashley Macias’s famed fantastical style pairs perfectly with the views (and menu offerings). And as you’ll discover below, this is just the start of the city’s dreamy pool offerings.

All manner of museum

Another legendary local museum whose exhibits are just the start of the offerings? The Musical Instrument Museum, home to more than 8,000 instruments from 200+ countries—and the Top Attraction in Phoenix, per TripAdvisor (a ranking the museum has earned repeatedly, most recently in 2021). While the permanent collection is mind-blowing in and of itself, try not to miss the current Treasures: Legendary Musical Instruments exhibit, with history-making, one-of-a-kind instruments that range from an ancient Mayan shell trumpet to Jimi Hendrix’s Black Widow guitar (through September 2023). You’ll also want to attend at least one of the museum’s seasonal events, whether Paul McDermand’s Christmas Island with the Kingston Trio’s Don Marovich (December 21) or the New Year's dinner at Café Allegro followed by best-selling solo pianist Jim Brickman, who'll be in the house with a special holiday lineup.

Retreats for every kind of chilling

Serenity now

If—as tends to happen after the holidays—you’d rather make spa and wellness the entire focus of your stay, Phoenix once again serves up endless options. But the short list these days tends to start with the award-winning Castle Hot Springs, another historic hideaway of the rich and famous (Vanderbilt, Rockefeller et al) that’s been reimagined for the 21st century. Though ancient, healing hot springs still lie at the resort’s center—and soaking in them may well turn out to be all you want to do here in this gorgeous, mountainous setting—other offerings on the new “intentional wellness menu” include a go at the state’s first via ferrata, a session with a meditation coach, a trek on a private hiking trail or a serenity-inducing massage with a custom-blend of essential oils from the in-house Aroma Design Bar. Another top spot to unwind in the desert: Civana, the first resort from a lifestyle brand created to connect wellbeing with eco-consciousness. Recently reimagined, the signature wellness programming takes maximal advantage of nature’s healing power with everything from morning meditation to outdoor sunset spin classes and sound bowl and star-gazing sessions. If you want to kick off 2022 on an especially centered note, consider being here for New Year’s Eve, when a team of expert guests and in-house wellness guides will be on hand to help with—for starters—intention- and goal-setting for the year ahead, cathartic endorphin release and a countdown to midnight with Jesse Israel and Jackie Cantwell of the famed phenomenon The Big Quiet (the meditative answer to the ball drop at Times Square).

Tee time

If your idea of a proper winter escape involves 18 holes and whole lot of green, you'll never want for choice in a metro area that consistently ranks among the nation’s best golf cities. In fact, the tournament known to the golf world as “the Greatest Show on Grass”—aka The Waste Management Phoenix Open—takes place at TPC Scottsdale February 7-13. For those who like to play as much as spectate, one favorite stay is the Boulders Resort & Spa, where Jay Morrish’s two-course layout has won Golf Magazine gold, Golf Digest best-of-the-southwest status and fan raves for the boulder-strewn scenery in addition to the challenge. If you lean more classic, look—once again—to the legacy of William Wrigley, who left behind not only that nearby mansion we mentioned, but also The Arizona Biltmore (now a Waldorf Astoria Resort). From the moment he bought the just-completed property in 1930, this desert enclave became the playground of everyone from US presidents to Hollywood royalty, who’ve all mixed it up on the fabled fairways. Today, you can choose between the historic Adobe Course, designed to Wrigley’s grand, sweeping specifications—or the younger, shorter Links Course with famously amazing Phoenix skyline views from the 15th hole. Another favorite aspect of golfing at the Arizona Biltmore? Proximity to the property’s Tierra Luna Spa, where this season’s special offering—the Stay Golden Spa Ritual—includes a soothing Gold Facial and Golden Goddess Bath, along with a glass of golden champagne for good measure.

Pool party

Of course, there are those for whom serenity can be summed up in two words: pool time. And whatever add-ons you could possibly want from that experience beyond some nice, warm water, a cushy lounger and a ready supply of sun and sustenance, Phoenix surely has them. Perhaps the likeliest spot to find whatever you could dream of, pool-wise, is the JW Marriott Phoenix Desert Ridge, where the already legendary collection of pools was just upgraded. What you’ll find now: five pools, two whirlpools, a 1,600-foot lazy river, an 89-foot serpentine water slide and splash pad and—the piece de resistance—Griffin Bay, a new pool experience with VIP seating, cabana cottages with ceiling misters and poolside suites with premium access to the lazy river. For a more literal take on a party pool, check out the Kimpton Palomar’s Lustre Rooftop Bar this New Year’s Eve, where the poolside lounges, chairs and cabanas will be the scene of serious festivities, complete with DJ, specialty cocktails and cigars rolled on the spot. Then again, with its gorgeous city views and consistently excellent cocktails, this rooftop pool feels celebratory any time—and the perfect place to toast to the wondrous winter break you’ve just had.

While pizza pilgrimages to Phoenix aren’t uncommon in light of the above, the city also serves up destination dining of a different nature: hotspots that star the desert itself, in addition to great food. The latest, and arguably the most anticipated opening of the year, is Christopher’s at Wrigley Mansion. Housed in the hilltop estate that chewing gum magnate William Wrigley built for his wife nearly a century ago, this restaurant pairs sweeping mountain and city vistas with the equally sweeping weekend tasting menus of the James Beard award-winning chef Christopher Gross. Expect such trademarks as the “egg in egg in egg” (an eggshell filled with scrambled eggs and gold leaf-sprinkled Osetra caviar, all under a ceramic, egg-shaped cloche). For a different take on desert destination dining in a historic home, head to Quiessence at the Farm. Not even 10 miles outside downtown Phoenix, this romantic, South Mountain enclave occupies an ancient riverbed where a distinctive microclimate has led to great growing conditions and one of the area’s pioneering farm-to-table establishments. Still a favorite, the restaurant serves up tasting menus with seasonal specialties that include kabocha squash soup with eggplant caponata, pickled radish and sweet potato chips, among other fixings. To taste some of the oldest Sonoran crops amid stunning desert surroundings, head to the state’s only AAA Five-Diamond/Forbes Five-Star dining outpost: Kai. Taking its name from the local Akimel O’othan word for “seed,” this Sheraton Grand at Wild Horse Pass standout sources ingredients from the surrounding Gila River Indian Community, as well as a few Tucson area food stars: the heritage-preserving Native Seeds/Search organization, the San Xavier Co-Op Farm and Tohono O’odham artist and Native food sovereignty activist Terrol Dew Johnson. While the menu is seasonal, you might find such specialties as grilled tenderloin of tribal buffalo with smoked corn puree, cholla buds and chorizo and scarlet runner bean chile—all drizzled with something you’d never imagine while hiking among the area’s iconic mega-cacti: saguaro blossom syrup.

Desert destination dining

Mexican masterpieces

Of course—as we said up top—there is no conversation about the Phoenix food scene without giving the local Mexican icons their due. Lucky for locals and visitors alike, as longtime favorites continue to shine, exciting new outposts surface. And it’s one of the latter that just landed on Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America, 2021 list: Bacanora, where “Sonoran-born chef/owner Rene Andrade and his team play with literal fire as they command the flame from the massive custom-built grill,” per the magazine. “At any given moment, you’ll find elote blackening, homemade flour tortillas warming, spatchcocked chickens charring, and massive bone-in rib-eye steaks searing, all above burning mesquite.” As for the longstanding legends, you won’t want for options. But, if you get to only one, make it Barrio Café — where President Biden and Vice President Harris were famously photographed during their first Arizona trip together last year. Helmed by Chef Silvana Salcido Esparza, whose regional Mexican cuisine has made her a national celebrity, this restaurant will celebrate 20 years in 2022. Every local has a favorite dish, with one—the chiles en nogada—so popular, there’s now a vegan version, too, lest plant-subsisting patrons miss out.

LOCAL FLAVORS

CULTURE LOVERS

Street art

To pair mural-spotting with some of the city’s best antiquing, dancing and patio cocktailing, head to the Melrose District, the “gayborhood” also known as "The Curve." An especially good day to go? March 5, 2022, when the Melrose Street Fair will bring an amazing array of artisans, food trucks, musicians, farmers market vendors and classic cars to a half-mile stretch of 7th Ave. And while you’re in the neighborhood, head to the nearby Canalscape (a multiuse trail along Phoenix’s Grand Canal), where the Phoenix Mural Project’s Mural Fest 2021 left behind an eye feast of epic proportions.

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Phoenix is also famous for its museums—not just their quality, but also their range. Even the most “traditional” among them, the Phoenix Art Museum, houses everything from Yayoi Kusama’s beloved infinity mirror room (You Who are Getting Obliterated in the Dancing Swarm of Fireflies) to the first North American retrospective of the renowned Colombian artist Oscar Muñoz’s work (Invisibilia, through January 16, 2022). If you’re looking for the kind of institution that could exist only in the desert southwest, head to the Heard Museum, one of the most extensive collections of American Indian art in existence. As impressive as the exhibits are (and textile fans should absolutely try to catch the current Toward the Morning Sun: Navajo Pictorial Textiles from the Jean-Paul and Rebecca Valette Collection before February 13, 2022), the signature winter events are the art world equivalent of blockbusters. First up is The World Championship Hoop Dance Contest, (February 12-13), when dazzling teams from the US and Canada will honor the artform’s ceremonial heritage among various North American indigenous communities. Then comes the Indian Fair and Market (March 5-6), a gathering of more than 600 preeminent American Indian artists and 15,000 or so visiting collectors, enthusiasts and first-timers.