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Editor's Letter
Let us help you discover the very best of this vibrant European capital. Whether you are travelling for business or leisure, London has much to offer – we reveal a selection of the season’s highlights in our guide section.
Don’t miss our feature on British-made brands and their top-quality products and our interview with jewellery designer Ece Şirin, founder of Bee Goddess. In this issue we also reveal the city’s most enticing eco-sensitive restaurants.
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 20% when shopping in the UK. We have over a decade’s experience of publishing guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top brands you’ll find in London. Discover the best shopping destinations in the city with Global Blue.
Welcome to London
SALLY McILHONE
get to know us
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.
So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
2. Claim
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
Contact
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 20% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5 London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL
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shop floor
Carla Lucena created the cover illustration for this season’s SHOP London Luxury. Her clean, elegant style is perfectly showcased in this image of a catwalk event taking place outside world-famous Buckingham Palace. Carla’s other clients include the Sunday Times, British Airways and P&O Cruises.
CARLA LUCENA
COntributors
New York-born freelance graphic designer Aaron Carline is passionate about editorial design and zine culture. During his spare time he can often be found in vintage clothing stores searching for rare finds, watching David Lynch films or listening to 1990s hip hop.
aAron Carline
SHOP’s picture editor Kirsty Andrews developed her love of all things visual while she was still at school, and went on to study photography at university. When she’s not out taking photos of her two children, she can be found working out in the gym – another of her passions. Kirsty is also partial to gripping crime novels, around-the-world trips and exploring the countryside.
Kirsty Andrews
souvenir
Head of Editorial Sally McIlhone Publisher James Morris Cover illustrator Carla Lucena Contributors Aaron Carline, Madeleine Murray-Lyons Production editor Farrah Moore Senior fashion editor Lucinda Turner Senior news editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Myers, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Chinese editor Yuan Fang Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Managing director UK and Ireland Derrick Hardman Sales manager – head of key accounts Peter Blake Sales manager – head of accounts Sarah Bubien Head of department stores UK and Ireland Dean Jones Marketing sales manager Christina Bachler Marketing account manager Janis Lejins Head of acquiring Ghermaine Henry Global account manager Emma Nicholl Key account managers Leonie Adams, Kenneth Barlow, Dianeth Cedeno-Gonzalez, Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere, Marisa Sanchez, Jasmine Sim, Victoria Taylor Account managers Jayac Heal, Adil Hussain, Anita Krejic, Bojana Krejic, Alexandra Furet, Eleaine Levi, Marlon Miguel, Mersiha Muratovic, Dettori Shek Global Blue UK, 7th floor, 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0AU, UK +44 (0)20 8232 1900 Regional tourist office Visit Britain London and Partners Advertising enquiries Christina Bachler: cbachler@globalblue.com
Senior designer Adam Pietrzyk Midweight designers Paulina Rasińska, Karolina Żak Junior designers Tatjiana Antoniou, Anna Nowakowska, Łukasz Owczarek Studio production coordinators Iza Kuczyńska, Marek Oświecimski Published by Rhapsody Media Group headquarters 109-123 Clifton Street, London EC2A 4LD, +44 (0)20 7729 1000, rhapsodymedia.com enquiries@rhapsodymedia.com
Print Walstead Krakow Printed by Walstead group Group headquarters 22 Westside Centre, London Road, Colchester, Essex CO3 8PH, walstead-group.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Rhapsody Media for Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2020 Global Blue
SOUVENIR
In 1999, British designer Clive Christian purchased the Crown Perfumery, a scent maker founded in 1872 and granted use of the royal crown insignia by Queen Victoria. Christian modernised the historic fragrances and launched his eponymous line, ensuring the sense of royal history was kept right at the heart. The brand’s Original Collection fragrances are now considered to be some of the most luxurious in the world. For its latest limited-edition release, the perfumery looked to the love story of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert and in particular to the sprig of orange blossom in the form of a brooch that the prince gave as an engagement present to his future bride. This inspired the fresh, citrus scent of 1872 Mandarin. A delicate fragrance featuring 149 ingredients, the perfume is the essence of summer and an ideal reminder of a historic British romance. LT
Clive Christian 1872 Mandarin eau de parfum, 50ml, £285
clivechristian.com
Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234
As one of London’s best-loved luxury brands, Mulberry is a must-visit when exploring the British capital. While classic designs such as the Bayswater and Lily bags are likely to have already found a home in many stylish wardrobes, it is the latest launches, designed under creative director Johnny Coca, that are truly worth making the trip for.
When it comes to creating an iconic handbag, British brand Mulberry has more experience than most. Its latest creation, the Iris, is part satchel, part tote bag and is definitely destined to be a part of your wardrobe, says Lucinda Turner
One such creation is the Iris, featuring Mulberry’s signature Keystone Lock. Launched in 2019, the super-soft leather bag is a combination of relaxed and formal styles and can be easily dressed up or down for any occasion. Thanks to pull cords on either side of the bag, the timeless silhouette can be adjusted for a sleeker or fuller shape.
Available in more than 10 different colourways and in two sizes, the Iris offers each customer the chance to put their own stamp on the bag. Once a shade has been chosen for the bag itself, the colour of the intricately woven handle can be selected. Whether it is a tonal classic hue or a vibrant two-tone choice, there are plenty of options for mixing and matching, with more added season on season.
Alongside the interchangeable top handle, there’s other scope for personalisation, with additional chains in metal or acetate and letter charms available. So there will be no confusion over who each Iris bag belongs to.
Practical, personal and perfectly formed, whether in timeless taupe or a seasonal pop of summery yellow, Mulberry’s Iris is sure to be a favourite for years to come.
Mulberry Iris bag, from £995
mulberry.com
Mulberry, 50 New Bond Street, London W1S 1BJ +44 (0)20 7491 3900
GOOD AS GOLD
London jewellery brand By Pariah is now available at renowned multi-brand store Browns. The label’s contemporary designs showcase a relaxed yet refined aesthetic, with pieces including nine-carat and 14-carat gold rings, earrings and necklaces paired with diamonds and precious stones such as green amethyst and yellow citrine. By Pariah’s ethical approach means that a minimum of 50% of the gold it uses is recycled and the diamonds are from conflict-free sources. With such superb credentials, it’s not surprising that the brand has acquired many high-profile fans, including models Karlie Kloss and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. GRC
Browns East
bypariah.com
21 Club Row, London E2 7EY, +44 (0)20 7729 2666
Byredo has collaborated with Parisian jewellery designer Charlotte Chesnais on a collection of fine jewellery. Byredo’s founder Ben Gorham has been expanding the brand’s offering of late: he recently introduced leather goods and takes his exploration of materials further with this venture into jewellery. Called Value Chain, the collection focuses on the chain link. This is both a symbol for the collaboration and the key shape across the bracelets, necklaces, earrings and rings. Designs come in sterling silver or gold, such as the pictured necklace and bracelet (price on request) and the collection alsofeatures pavé diamond designs, which are made to order. GRC
Byredo
byredo.com
40 Lexington Street, London W1F 0LN, +44 (0)20 7199 8450
The Eye Concentrate has been one of La Mer’s bestsellers since it was launched more than a decade ago. The product has now been updated with an improved formula designed to lessen the appearance of dark circles, lines and wrinkles. The new Eye Concentrate contains the brand’s Concentrated Miracle Broth and Recovery Kelp, among other powerful ingredients that not only hydrate and refresh the skin but also help defend against environmental aggressors such as pollution. The lightweight cream for the delicate skin around the eye can be applied twice a day, using the cooling applicator supplied. GRC
Selfridges
cremedelamer.com
400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)20 7160 6222 (international)
on time
March Lab, which opened a boutique in Soho last year, has strengthened its presence in the UK with its recent arrival at the Harrods Fine Watch Rooms. March Lab is based in Los Angeles and Biarritz, taking the initials from these two cities to form the second part of its name. The brand creates classic timepieces, which are designed in LA and made in France, and draw on the elegance of vintage watches. Its bestsellers, such as the Mansart Automatic Magnum, can now be discovered in one of London’s most prestigious stores. Harrods’ Fine Watch Rooms, which carry the world’s best watch brands, are a must-visit for enthusiasts of luxury watches. March Lab is in good company here. GRC
Harrods
march-lab.com
87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234
Founded in 1878, Connolly started as a saddle and shoe-making business. With the advent of the automotive industry it turned its attention to the world of motor racing and touring. Renowned for its leather expertise, it has decked the seats of Rolls Royces, Aston Martins and more. The brand branched into producing luxury leather goods in the 1990s but this retail line closed in 2010. It was recently relaunched, and its latest iteration can be discovered at its flagship store, which spans three floors of a historic London townhouse on Clifford Street. The leather, tailoring and classic collections can be discovered on the ground floor, while the lower ground floor is home to the driving collection. On the first floor, visitors can find antiques, objets d’art and motoring memorabilia. GRC
Connolly
connollyengland.com
4 Clifford Street, London W1S 2LG, +44 (0)20 7952 6708
Westfield Stratford City is anchored by leading UK retailers John Lewis & Partners, Waitrose and Marks & Spencer, and is home to over 350 stores and more than 85 dining options. This key leisure destination also offers three hotels, a bowling alley and a 20-screen all- digital cinema.
by london underground
By train
By taxi
The Central and Jubilee lines run a regular service from central London to Stratford station.
A taxi from central London takes 25 minutes.
Trains run from King’s Cross St Pancras and Liverpool Street to Stratford International station.
How to get there
opening times
Monday-Friday: 10am-9pm
Saturday: 9am-9pm
Sunday: 12am-6pm
Westfield Stratford City
uk.westfield.com
Montfichet Road, Olympic Park, London E20 1EJ, +44 (0)20 8221 7300
CHARING CROSS STATION
LIVERPOOL STREET STATION
WATERLOO STATION
Westfield London
STRATFORD INTERNATIONAL
EUSTON
KINGS CROSS ST.PANCRAS STATION
PADDINGTON STATION
STRATFORD STATION
LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET
LDO is home to over 70 places to shop and dine, with year-round savings of up to 70% off RRP – and up to 85% off RRP during sales – at outlet stores from brands such as Nike, Puma, Converse, Adidas, Skechers, Moss Bros, Dr Martens, Dune, Jack Wills, Gap and Superdry, plus many more.
by car
By bus
The closest parking is the secure, 24-hour, multi-storey Red Car Park, adjacent to LDO. The postcode for sat nav is HA9 0FD.
Bus routes 18, 83, 92, 182, 206, 223, 224 and 297 all stop within a few minutes’ walk of LDO, providing links from throughout the local area.
Just 12 minutes from central London by Tube or rail, LDO is well connected and serviced by the Jubilee and Metropolitan lines to Wembley Park, as well as national rail from Wembley Stadium station to Marylebone and out to the Chilterns.
Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm
Sunday: 10am-5pm
London Designer Outlet
londondesigneroutlet.com
Wembley Park Boulevard, Wembley Park HA9 0FD, +44 (0)20 3744 4470
Fees: Up to six hours, £1 per hour; six-eight hours, £10; eight-12 hours, £12; 12-24 hours, £24.
Wembley Stadium
Discover something extraordinary every day at Bicester Village. Home to more than 160 boutiques from leading fashion and lifestyle brands, including Saint Laurent and Belstaff, it offers savings of up to 60% on the recommended retail price.
Bicester Village
bicestervillage.com
50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266
Bicester Village is just 60 minutes from London by car. Exit the M40 motorway at Junction 9 and follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester. From Bicester the route is clearly signposted. Look for Bicester Village Outlet Centre. Parking is always free.
By car
By Shopping Express
The Shopping Express coach service runs direct from central London to Bicester Village, with two daily* return services, collecting from selected London hotels. Adult return £28/child return £20 (ages 5-12). *excludes 25 December
London Marylebone direct to Bicester Village Station in as little as 46 minutes, with two services an hour. Travel from Birmingham Moor Street or Birmingham Snow Hill to Bicester North, where a shuttle bus will take you to the Village.
Monday-Friday: 9am-7pm
Saturday: 9am-8pm
Sunday: 10am-7pm
BICESTER VILLAGE STATION
BICESTER NORTH
Westfield London is a world-class retail and entertainment destination, offering 450 retail outlets and the best in premium and high-street fashion and beauty. This must-visit location also includes The Village, showcasing 40 of the world’s leading luxury brands.
Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 3371 2300
There are four Underground stations located within walking distance of Westfield London: Shepherd’s Bush and White City on the Central line and Wood Lane and Shepherd’s Bush Market on the Hammersmith & City and Circle lines.
A taxi from central London takes 10 minutes.
Monday-Saturday: 10am-10pm
Dresses are a defining part of JW Anderson’s spring/summer 2020 collection. With a particular focus on draping and gathering, they come in an array of styles and fabrications, from knitted to asymmetric and metallic. Coats are also central to the range, offering plenty of volume and striking contrast lapels. Looks are finished with the brand’s covetable accessories such as the signature anchor logo bags, the recently introduced Cap bag or basket bags. This spring also saw JW Anderson open its flagship store in London’s Soho neighbourhood – the new store is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the unique world of the British fashion brand. SM
London Persona
londonpersona.com
71 Duke Street, London W1K 5NX, +44 (0)20 7442 5658
bee goddess
101 Walton Street, London SW3 2HP, +44 (0)20 7052 9138
I was in the corporate world for several years. But no matter how successful I was, avoid was growing in me. Many people are like me, soul searching. So what do you do when you soul search? You go shopping; you try to get fulfilment from spending money because you work so hard. But that happiness is not lasting, because the minute you buy your Rolex, you see somebody who has a bigger one; or you have a one-carat diamond and you see somebody with a 30-carat one. Consumerism affected me in a very negative way. At the same time I was doing what I call spiritual shopping. People try everything: today a shaman, the next day reiki – I did all of that. I was fed up so I left my job at Microsoft. I went for a reading by an astrologer and was expecting to hear amazing things. He said, ‘You are here to serve others.’ I was very upset. The only good thing I heard was the word ‘goddess’. So I said, ‘I need to find the light in this whole thing’ and I started reading to find inspiration.
HOW DID YOU START Bee Goddess?
01
When I read the story of the moon goddess Diana, or Artemis, I felt ‘this is so me’ even though I was only at the seed level. She was a star, very far away but light. So, I initiated myself that day – I did my ritual. She got me into a very magical world. I didn’t believe in magic. But with this initiation, with her light, I found myself in the mystical world of symbolism.
WHO IS THE GODDESS?
02
I came up with the idea of a brand which tells people the truth, that there is only one of you, one of each of us. That makes us limited-edition pieces. If I know that I’m never going to meet anyone like you again, that there’s only one, you become so precious.
HOW DID THE BRAND DEVELOP?
03
The Sword of Light is inspired by the sword given by the Lady of the Lake to King Arthur. Everyone said, ‘Are you not Bee Goddess? It’s a very spiritual brand, why are you using a tool of war?’ But this is not a tool of war. A sword is a sharp mind and a sharp tongue. The sword is the faith in your heart. About 15 years ago, if anybody had told me, ‘in 10 years, you’re going to have a brand which Madonna, Cate Blanchett and Kate Winslet wear and you’re going to have seven stores around the world,’ would I have been full of questions or in agony? The journey of self-fulfilment, realising your potential, turns from agony to joy because there is faith. We all need that.
WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE SWORD OF LIGHT SYMBOL?
04
This is the brand’s seventh year in retail and there are seven stores. The seven-pointed star from Ireland, also known as septagram and fairy star, is one of my symbols. The first seven years were like an incubation. In the chakras, there are seven steps or stages to life, and each is an awakening. The essence of Bee Goddess is light; everything is about light and how much light we have in our lives. Light is wisdom of the soul, beauty, love.
HOW MANY STORES DO YOU HAVE?
07
Would you listen to me if I was using fake stones? No. The soul wants the utmost beauty. If you had the opportunity to eat on the finest porcelain or on paper which would you choose?
WHY ARE REAL STONES IMPORTANT?
08
05
This is a very matriarchal brand. The consumer world is driven by men; there aren’t many women who are owners of big brands or who run communications and advertising agencies. I think the world needs more feminine energy, cooperation and collaboration, sisterhood.
HOW DOES BEE GODDESS CELEBRATE WOMEN?
06
It is the symbol of creation, of the whole of our ecosystem. You see the solar system in the rose design, with the sun and seven layers. The sun is in the centre of the solar system, and the seven layers are seven planets. This is also our heart, and there is a seven-layer maze to go through to reach our essence, to discover the light within.
WHAT IS THE MEANING BEHIND THE ROSA MUNDI DESIGN?
09
My journey has changed from slavery to empowerment. I feel enlightened and I really like to share that. I feel very blessed. I never thought serving could be so glorious. When you look at how the bees serve – they pollinate, they dance, there is the bee ‘song’ – it’s very joyful, and they make honey, which is concentrated light. If I hadn’t suffered, if I hadn’t been so unhappy, I wouldn’t have looked for the light. If you’re not hungry, you do not eat. The whole idea is to transform pain and suffering into light. We have that capability, we really do.
HOW HAS FOUNDING THE BRAND CHANGED YOU?
10
We need something that connects us and symbols do that. It’s just that names change; Tanit, Ishtar, Aphrodite, Venus – they are all the same goddess. We are talking about archetypes. Symbolism is all in mythology, and mythology is last year’s religion or belief system. It’s the song of the soul. When we meet these archetypes in stories, we connect with them. They have a profound effect, healing and transforming us. These symbols are in our subconscious mind, our software.
WHY DO YOU HAVE SUCH A STRONG BELIEF IN SYMBOLS?
Ece Şirin
FOUNDER OF JEWELLERY BRAND BEE GODDESS
Turkish jewellery designer Ece Şirin creates beautiful pieces inspired by talismanic symbols such as bees and roses. She tells Sally McIlhone how she left the corporate world to find spiritual fulfilment, how she established her brand, and how light is central to her ethos
beegoddess.com
Britain’s history and culture of encouraging craftsmanship on home soil has made it a go-to for products that will stand the test of time
The value of investing in time-honoured British-made brands is unquestionable. Although there are a number of UK-based global manufacturing titans – long-standing and recently emerging players among them – Britain’s history and culture of encouraging craftsmanship on home soil has made it a go-to for products that will stand the test of time. Whether you are looking for a new scent, an item of tailoring or an impeccably crafted signet ring, there is a British brand for you.
Floris’s fairy-tale story must be the envy of other brands. We still run the business from the same shop in Jermyn Street, London, where it was established in back in 1730,’ says Edward Bodenham, perfumery director and ninth-generation owner of Floris. ‘All our products are produced in the UK. Our core values are about being British-made and about sustainability through the materials we use and the way we put them together.’ Sustainability is a concern for the majority of brands, but Floris is keen to ensure it doesn’t become just another buzzword. ‘It’s important to invest back into our economy while reducing our carbon footprint,’ Bodenham says. Floris, he adds, is one of the original British perfume houses and its influence as a leader in the industry ‘can’t be undervalued’.
Being a British-made brand helps Floris invest in home-grown perfumery talent. ‘Our perfumers all work in-house with me at the shop on Jermyn Street and have incredibly wide training,’ says Bodenham. ‘My top two perfumers have now worked with me for a combined 17 years, so we’ve built our skills together and are constantly developing as a team. Being British-owned and rooted in our heritage in London has given us a strong affinity to local manufacturing.’
Director Emmet Smith focused the brand on engraved jewellery from 2005, after beginnings in business-to-business hand engraving. ‘I did a five-year apprenticeship at a company called R H Wilkins,’ Smith says. When he finished the training he found that his boss wanted to retire, so he bought the business, and then decided to go direct to consumers. ‘We were getting so many signet rings from other high-street jewellers that weren’t very good – thin, a bit wonky,’ he recalls. ‘I thought I could do better myself.’
Rebus now has an immaculately appointed store in the heart of Hatton Garden, London’s jewellery quarter, where it offers personalised rings at very affordable prices. Engraved initials start at £100 and crests from Victorian reference books start at £320. Items are packaged in a stunning gift box with a wax seal, and you’d struggle to find a more reasonably priced, handmade gift. A team of Rebus craftspeople creates 90% of its output on site.
‘We don’t do the stone setting yet,’ says Smith, adding that a trainee is learning that craft. ‘But the beauty of Hatton Garden is that we’ve got experts next door to each other, so the ring will just travel down the road and come back.’
The signet ring, long associated with the upper echelons of British society, is having a fashion moment, bringing a wave of new customers to Rebus. ‘You don’t have to be part of the landed gentry and have a family crest – you can make up whatever you want. Lots of people aren’t using heraldry any longer, they’re making up their own symbolism,’ says Smith.
Clients bring in a mood board of symbols that have personal meaning, and work with Rebus to create a unique design. After the artwork is signed off, it takes around eight weeks to produce a bespoke item. ‘We can do anything,’ says Smith. And he really does mean anything. Some of the more intriguing designs have included a cat smoking a pipe and horses galloping through galaxies.
Another brand that takes great pride in its range of British-made products is Hemingsworth, which brings together materials from overseas, such as mother-of-pearl buttons and technical fabrics, to create clothing for the jet-setting gentleman. ‘Of course, when it comes to manufacture, it has to be the UK or specifically London for us,’ says founder Matt Jones. Fusing ‘heritage Savile Row tailoring with cutting-edge material and fabric design’, Hemingsworth creates ingenious products, including the Clipper swim shorts. These are stocked in Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason, Fenwick and Harrods.
‘We bring together an uncompromising fit, timeless, versatile style and luxurious materials,’ says Jones. Clipper shorts are made from a 29-piece pattern and go through 17 hand-finished stages before leaving the London factory. ‘We’ve developed the first integral waist belt in a swim short to expand and evolve with the wearer, twinned with a French fly to keep the shorts flat at the front. These functional details, where every element has been considered, are the key differences our customers look for.’
For Hemingsworth, British-based production is essential. ‘Given the tailoring complexity and levels of quality we require, there really is no other place in the world where we could make our products. It is very important as a British brand that we support and reinvest into British factories, people and skills. The sought-after reputation of British manufacturing that generations before have built needs to be recognised, and that tradition has to be continued.’
Jones’ words resonate with those of Emmet Smith at Rebus. ‘Quintessential British style is known throughout the world, whether it’s Savile Row or Hatton Garden,’ says Smith. ‘We’re known for innovation and fashion and arts. Being part of that gang is great’
While Floris is firmly part of the old guard, exciting younger British brands are also making a name for themselves. Rebus, a relative newcomer founded in 1971, produces hand-engraved signet rings, pendants and cufflinks.
made in britain
Craftsmanship is a vital part of British heritage, and a diverse range of brands continues to produce top-quality items on home soil, as Sally McIlhone discovers
Brompton Junction
76 Long Acre, London WC2E 9JS, +44 (0)20 7836 5700
What we’re trying to do in the museum is tell our story and portray our heritage. Visitors to the museum can take a tour of the factory and discover early prototypes.
What can visitors to the Brompton museum expect?
Andrew Ritchie invented the bike in 1975. It took him several years to get it off the ground but eventually a few friends invested and he launched the first 400 bikes in 1981. He’s still in the business – he’s in his 70s but it’s his baby so he keeps a close eye on everything we do.
When was the first Brompton bike produced?
A rare special edition which sells in store for £1,300 can sell for more to collectors. Our ultimate aim is for people to ride the bikes but we understand that a Brompton is an iconic piece of British design and if some customers want to have one on display in their apartment, as a beautiful piece of craftsmanship – that’s entirely up to them.
What is the market for your limited-edition releases?
We started winning awards in the 1990s, including the Queen’s Award for Export. Today about 80% of what we build is exported internationally. We’re now available in 47 countries.
How did Brompton achieve its astonishing international success?
Over 70% of car journeys in the UK are under five miles, a distance that could easily be covered by electric bikes, so we are providing a more eco friendly transport option.
Why should people CHOOSE a Brompton Electric bike OVER the car?
We collaborate with brands that share our ethos and values – for example Barbour and Brooks England are both classic British brands with craftsmanship at their core. And we had a lot of fun collaborating with Korean social media company Line.
How does Brompton choose its collaborators?
We need to shout more about our heritage in our Brompton Junction stores because it’s genuine. Our bikes have been made in London since 1975 – we could have moved elsewhere and made the bikes more cheaply but we wanted to stay in London.
How does Brompton showcase its Made in Britain credentials?
Our biggest innovation has been the Brompton Electric. It launched last year and we worked closely with Williams Formula One to develop the proprietary motor technology. It’s a pedal-assisted motor, so it provides a genuine alternative to the car.
How DOES Brompton appeal to the eco-conscious consumer?
The Brompton World Championships (BWC) is our renowned event series. The BWC Final is held in London every August at Prudential RideLondon. It’s a community celebration and helps us inspire more people to cycle.
Can you tell us more about the Brompton World Championships?
We’re looking at branded items such as T-shirts and caps with a tailored edge. We’ve collaborated with Endura for our City Apparel clothing range and occasionally create a jacket to pair with a particular bike.
WHAT ELSE DOES BROMPTON OFFER BEYOND BIKES?
Head of retail customer experience at Brompton
Brompton’s world-famous folding bikes have been made in London since 1975. Greg Sanderson, head of retail customer experience, tells Sally McIlhone about the brand’s special editions, green credentials and international success
brompton.com
The English garden offers a rich sensorial experience and has inspired many perfumers
From citrus-scented lemon balm to the floral bouquet of lavender or meadowsweet’s honey-like smell, Britain’s aromatic herbs and flowers have played a key role historically in many aspects of society. In medieval times, apothecaries and herbalists drew on the healing benefits of these plants and posies of flowers were carried to ward off illness. In the 17th and 18th centuries, royal courts were strewn with flowers and herbs, such as lavender, sage and roses, to mask unpleasant odours. Advances in medicine meant the use of plants gradually became predominantly cosmetic, and their aromatic qualities became recognised as valuable ingredients for perfumes.
Keyneston Mill in the beautiful, rural county of Dorset, a two-hour drive from London, taps into the rich legacy of English gardens with its fascinating perfumery project and has dedicated its botanical gardens to aromatic and scented plants. These are grown, harvested and distilled into fragrances under the Parterre label. ‘We wanted to explore unusual botanical ingredients that either haven’t been used in perfume before, or haven’t been used in a long time,’ explains co-founder Julia Bridger. ‘There are so many aromatic and fragrant plants that are not traditionally on the perfumer’s palette and we really enjoy the experimental nature of what we do.’ She adds that she is ‘surprised at how many people who are passionate about perfume have very limited knowledge about the plants that form the key ingredients. This is why, I believe, visitors come to our gardens – here they can smell the leaves and flowers, and learn how they are transformed into perfume.’
Tom Daxon Bowers, who founded his eponymous brand in 2013, also acknowledges the influence of British flower gardens. ‘It’s such a strong tradition, it can lead you down the garden path – forgive the pun,’ he says. ‘Think how many English roses there are. Our rose fragrance, Crushing Bloom, was inspired by my mum’s rose garden’s huge, sprawling, Tim Burton-esque rose plants. I wanted the fragrance to reflect that image, not the traditional, polite rose scents that are everywhere.’
Tom Daxon’s Crushing Bloom is a key example of the superb rose-centred fragrances that are coming to the fore. ‘Spring/summer 2020 will see the rose fragrance market fully blossom,’ says Sinisi. ‘From classic to fruity and oriental, there will be rose notes to suit every preference.’
Many of the British perfume brands carried by Harrods have their own take on the rose, from Penhaligon’s The Coveted Duchess Rose to Roja Parfums’ Rose De Mai or Jo Malone’s Red Roses. Floris offers an oriental floral interpretation with its eau de parfum A Rose For, while Parterre’s 1920s-inspired A Tribute to Edith combines unexpected notes, as Bridger explains: ‘Rose-scented geranium oil brings citrus and minty elements, creating a much more contemporary, fresher quality than pure rose oil. The addition of unexpected yarrow and a brandy note from the plant davana make this a really intriguing fragrance with a bit of an edge to it, perfect for the 2020s.’ Although rose is often deemed a very classic scent, these interpretations clearly prove that there is plenty of scope for reinvention and a fresh approach from Britain’s leading brands.
Customers are spoiled for choice by the range of fragrances created by the UK’s best noses. Much like the country’s spectacular gardens, the cornucopia of floral scents from British perfumers is a complete sensorial delight.
The quintessential landscaped English garden dates back to the early 18th century, when tastes moved away from the formal designs of French gardens and towards a natural look. Offering rich sensorial experiences, these beautiful spaces have influenced and inspired countless artists, writers, musicians and, of course, British perfumers.
The fragrant blooms of British gardens have inspired perfumers for centuries – and continue to do so today, writes Ginger Rose Clark
London department stores are some of the best places to discover the country’s leading traditional and cutting-edge perfumes. ‘We are proud of our British fragrance offering at Harrods, hosting a carefully curated section of brands such as Penhaligon’s, Roja Parfums, Boadicea the Victorious, Clive Christian, Jo Malone, Ormonde Jayne and Atkinsons,’ says Federica Sinisi, the prestigious store’s fragrance buyer.
theconduit.com
The Conduit, 40 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YQ, +44 (0)20 3912 8400,
THE CONDUIT
The typical idea of a private member’s club is turned on its head at the Conduit. Aimed at those interested in generating positive social change, it gathers a community of visionaries in a space conducive to action. Such blue-sky thinking needs fuel to generate the best ideas, and the Conduit’s restaurant is at the heart of its endeavours. Executive chef Leonardo Pereira, formerly of Noma, presides over the cuisine in the building, and Drew Snaith is the head chef of the fourth-floor restaurant, which is firmly committed to sustainability and also offers a guest chef programme, previously hosting Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana in Modena. The Conduit’s kitchens are 100% single-use plastic free, and food waste is reduced with innovative workarounds, such as transforming sourdough bread into crackers to serve with the cod’s roe dip snack (which we are still having dreams about). Members of the public signing up to an open house day at the Conduit can enjoy a meal here.
bokanlondon.co.uk
Bōkan, 40 Marsh Wall, London E14 9TP, +44 (0)20 3530 0550
BŌKAN
Bōkan has already carved out a name for itself among discerning London diners for its epic views of the Thames. Perhaps not as well-known as the Shard or Tower 42, Bōkan rewards those who journey a little off the beaten track and is perfectly placed for those exploring east London’s financial district. Offering a restaurant on the 37th floor, a bar on the 38th and a rooftop terrace on the 39th, it is the perfect summer discovery on a trip to the city. In addition to its spectacular views, the restaurant boasts a regularly changing vegan tasting menu, tapping into the need for more ethical fine dining options among London’s abundance of inexpensive plant-based comfort eats. When you dine at Bōkan, you’ll sample creations by executive chef Guillaume Gillan such as celeriac tagliatelle with sesame dressing, roasted potato and white truffle, and the likes of poached pear with choco sauce, and almond and pear sorbet for dessert. This five-course tasting menu is well worth sampling.
nativerestaurant.co.uk
native, Osea Island, Maldon, Essex CM9 8UH, +44 (0)7507 861570,
NATIVE
After our visit, Native shot straight to the top of our list of London foodie favourites. This award-winning restaurant champions foraged food and game. Founders Imogen Davis and Ivan Tisdall-Downes share a passion for seasonal cusine and they combine hunter gatherer know-how with an incredible palette. Thanks to their commitment, Native has progressed from street food markets and pop-ups to a London Bridge outlet and, from October 2020, a new outpost on Osea Island in Essex. Its eco credentials are evident from a quick survey of the menu. Rather than import rice for its risotto starter, Native uses potato as the central ingredient. The discarded potato and skin then form the base for the potato waffle on the snack menu, which is served with Bramley apple jelly and the smoothest chicken liver parfait you’ll ever taste. Enjoy British-made wine, from sparkling options to whites and reds that certainly compete with their European counterparts. Whatever you do, don’t miss the Marrowmel dessert. We can’t wait to go back.
Table Talk
In London, growing environmental concerns have given rise to a tempting range of restaurants with an eco-focus. Madeleine Murray-Lyons samples some of the best.
From Veganuary to #nobuyyear, the collective consciousness is becoming increasingly aware of the issues our planet faces as a result of climate change, deforestation and farming. What we eat is a huge contributing factor to the problems facing generations to come and many people are realising that small changes can make a big difference, not least of all applying the principles of sustainability to food consumption.
A wave of conscious restaurants is making an increasing impact in the British capital and beyond, with venues championing local produce, carbon neutrality and even recycled decor. Whether you’re intrigued to sample wild food, visit a private member’s club with a heart or enjoy a sustainable tasting menu from one of the world’s most celebrated mixologists, London’s conscious restaurants are sure to leave you feeling sated and perhaps even a little saintly.
london guide
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a bespoke suit maker on Savile Row to Tower Bridge (pictured). Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out here.
central london
COLVINE TERRACE
ARTESIAN ROAD
WESTBOURNE GROVE
CHEPSTOW VILLAS
LEDBURY ROAD
COVILLE ROAD
DENBIGH ROAD
NEEDHAM ROAD
LONSDALE ROAD
COLVILLE MEWS
THE VILLAGE BICYCLE
CARAMEL
LYON CHOY LONDON
PETIT BATEAU
EMMA HOPE
MELT
ASHLEY STORES
ASSYA LONDON
JEEVES
FARA BABY
FARA KIDS
ECONE
I LOVE GORGEOUS
JW BEETON
MELISSA ODABASH
WOLF & BADGER
DAVID CLULOW
PETIT AIME
reiss
ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES
Ottolenghi
E&O
Beach Blanket Babylon
TWENTY8TWELVE
MATCHES
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
ANYA HINDMARCH
MR HARE
MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE
LE CREUSET
ME+EM
matches
PENELOPE CHILVERS
SWEATY BETTY
BODAS
Ledbury Road
legend
restaurant
Global blue retailer
NON-Global blue retailer
hotel
Place Of interest
Train
Underground
click for more
Street closeup
sHop Highlights
lambert road
kennington rd
strand
aldwych
KINGSWAY
BLOOMSBURY ST.
WHITEHALL
THEOBOLD’S RD
HIGH HOLBORN
fleet st.
chancery
ln.
albert embankment
TOTTENHAM COURT RD
COVENT GARDEN
WESTMINSTER
CHARING CROSS
EMBANKMENT
LEICESTER SQUARE
temple
HOLBORN
LAMBETH NORTH
waterloo
CHANCERY LANE
Redchurch Street
Corinthia Hotel London
TATE BRITAIN
WESTMINSTER ABBEY
big ben
London eye
ROYAL FESTIVAL HALL
Southbank
SOMERSET HOUSE
NATIONAL THEATRE
BRITISH MUSEUM
Tom Dixon
This chic homeware brand offers a striking collection that includes candles and gift sets as well as chandeliers and tables lights.
tomdixon.net
Tom Dixon, 4-10 Bagley Walk Arches, Coal Drops Yard, London N1C 4DH, +44 (0)330 363 0030
BAYSWATER RD
KENSINGTON RD
SLOANE ST.
BROMPTON ROAD
Old
BROMPTON
RD
FULHAM RD
KING’S RD
PONT ST.
EDGWARE RD
SYDNEY ST.
MARYLEB ONE RD
HARROW RD
SUSSEX GARDENS
PRAED ST.
SERPENTINE GALLERY
ROYAL ALBERT HALL
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM
APSLEY HOUSE
Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Rd
Mount St., Davies St. & Bruton St.
Sloane Street north
Sloane Street south
Brompton Road
South Molton St.
edgware road
LANCASTER GATE
MARBLE ARCH
KNIGHTS BRIDGE
PADDINGTON
SOUTH KENSINGTON
HYDE PARK CORNER
SLOANE SQUARE
MARYLEBONE
BAKER STREET
BOND ST.
John Bell & Croyden
John Lewis & Partners
GROSVENOR PL.
PICCADILLY
OXFORD ST.
BUCKINGHAM
PALACE RD
From fragrance to skincare and make-up, browse the extensive range at this heritage pharmacy.
johnbellcroyden .co.uk
John Bell & Croyden, 50-54 Wigmore Street, London W1U 2AU, +44 (0)20 7935 5555
One of London’s most acclaimed department stores, John Lewis & Partners is where to go for fashion, perfumes, home accessories and more.
johnlewis.com
John Lewis & Partners, 300 Oxford Street, London W1C 1DX, +44 (0)20 7629 7711
NEW BOND ST.
REGENT ST.
VAUXHALL BRIDGE RD
PORTLAND PL.
GREAT PORTLAND ST.
SHAFTES
BURY
VICTORIA ST.
JERMYN ST.
PALL MALL
OXFORD CIRCUS
GOODGE STREET
GREEN PARK
PICCADILLY CIRCUS
VICTORIA
ST. JAMES PARK
PIMLICO
New bond street
Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Str.
Conduit Street & Old Bond Street
Regent Street
BUCKINGHAM PALACE
7 For All Mankind
Premium denim brand 7 For All Mankind is a must-visit for leisurewear, from jeans to T-shirts and jackets.
7forallmankind.com
7 For All Mankind, 225 Regent Street, London W1B 2ED, +44 (0)20 7495 3244
للاتّصال
عندما تتسوّق حول العالم، تسوّق من دون دفع الضريبة
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة التسوّق من دون دفع الضريبة Tax Free لتدّخر المال لدى تسوّقك في أكثر من 300,000 متجر في أبرز مناطق التسوّق حول العالم
Tax Free
.
فلمَ لا تنضمّ إلى الـ 26 مليون مسافر الذين يتسوّقون من دون دفع الضريبة من خلال غلوبل بلو كلّ سنة؟ ما عليك إلا أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو وتتبع
Global Blue
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو خدمة التسوّق من دون دفع الضريبة لتدّخر المال لدى تسوّقك في أكثر من 300,000 متجر في أبرز مناطق التسوّق حول العالم
.2
تسوّق
أينما تسوّقت، أطلب الحصول على طلب استرداد الضريبة الخاصّ بغلوبل بلو وتذكّر أن تحتفظ بالإيصالات
.1
أطلب
في طريق العودة إلى وطنك، أقصد مكتب الجمارك عند نقطة المغادرة لتتم المصادقة على إيصالاتك قبل قبض الاسترداد من أحد مكاتب الاسترداد الخاصّة بنا
أنفق حدّاً أدنى قدره 30 وادّخر حتّى %20 من ثمن مشترياتك. يشمل مبلغ الاسترداد النهائي الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضريبة على القيمة المضافة ناقص رسم إداري. في بعض المطارات، يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي على كل طلب استرداد ضريبة في حال رغبت بالحصول على استرداد فوري نقدي
لا يختلف إثنان على أهميّة الاستثمار في علامات تجاريّة بريطانيّة عريقة. بالرغم من وجود بعض عمالقة الصناعة العالميّة في المملكة المتّحدة، بعضهم منذ الأزل والبعض الآخر مؤخّراً، تشكّل بريطانيا وجهةً لشراء المنتجات التي تتحدّى عامل الزمن بفضل تاريخها وثقافتها الداعية إلى تشجيع المهارة الفنيّة المحليّة. إن كنت تبحث عن عطر جديد أو عن قطعة ملابس أو عن خاتم ختمٍ، تجد علامة بريطانيّة تزوّدك بذلك
لا شكّ أن قصّة الأسطوريّة محطّ غيرة العلامات الأخرى. يقول ، مدير قسم العطور ومالك من الجيل التاسع: "ما زلنا ندير الأعمال من المحلّ نفسه في شارع في لندن، حيث تأسّس سنة 1730. نصنع كافّة منتجاتنا في المملكة المتّحدة. قيمُنا الجوهريّة هي الصناعة البريطانيّة وتحقيق الاستدامة من خلال المواد التي نستخدمها وطريقة التعامل بها." تسعى غالبيّة العلامات إلى تحقيق الاستدامة، لكن تحرص Floris على عدم تحويل هذا المبدأ إلى كلمة طنّانة فحسب. يقول في هذا الصدد: "من المهمّ أن نستثمر في اقتصادنا ونقلّص من بصمتنا الكربونيّة. هي إحدى دور العطور البريطانيّة الأولى ولا يمكن غضّ النظر عن تأثيرها كرائدة في هذا المجال
منذ سنة 2005، ركّز المدير أعمال العلامة على المجوهرات المحفورة وكان قد بدأ في الحفر اليدوي للشركات. تدرّب لخمس سنوات في شركة ووجد بعدها أنّ مديره سيتقاعد فاشترى الشركة وقرّر أن يستهدف الزبائن مباشرةً. يستذكر قائلاً: "وصلتنا عدّة خواتم ختم شائبة، رفيعة ومعتلّة من صائغي مجوهرات آخرين. فشعرت أنّني قادر على ابتكار أفضل منها
واليوم، لدى متجر فاخر في قلب
يشرح قائلاً: "لا نركّب الأحجار بعد، لكن ثمّة متدرّب بتعلّم الصنعة." ويضيف: "الجميل في منطقة أنّه لدينا جميع الخبراء من حولنا، فلإنهاء خاتمٍ معيّن، ما علينا إلا أن نرسله إلى آخر الشارع
طبقة الأعيان وتتمتّع بشارة عائلة، إذ يمكنك أن تصمّم ما تشاء. فقدكفّ الكثير من الأشخاص عن استخدام شعارات النُبل وباتوا يبتكرون
Floris
صُنع في بريطانيا
Sally McIlhone
المهارة الفنيّة جزء أساسي من الإرث البريطاني ولا زالت مجموعة متنوّعة من العلامات التجاريّة تُنتج أغراضاً فائقة الجودة على أرض الوطن، تقرير
Edward Bodenham
Jermyn
Bodenham
".
في حين تنتمي إلى الجيل المحافظ، تسعى علامات بريطانيّة صاعدة مثيرة للاهتمام إلى صناعة إسمٍ لها أيضاً. تأسّست علامة نة 1971 وتصنع أختاماً محفورة يدويّاً على خواتم وحلي وأزرار
Rebus
Emmet Smith
R H Wilkins
،Hatton Garden
منطقة المجوهرات في لندن
تقدّم خواتم مصمّمة بحسب الطلب حيث وبأسعار مدروسة للغاية. تبدأ أسعار الأحرف الأولى المنقوشة من 100 جنيه استرليني والشارات من كتيّب الشركة الفكتوري من 320 جنيه استرليني. توضّب القطع في علبة رائعة مختومة بالشمع فتستحيل هديّة يدويّة الصنع، يصعب إيجاد أفضل منها بهذا السعر. تجدر الإشارة إلى أنّ 90% من قطع تُصنع في الموقع لديها من قبل فريق من الحرفييّن
،
Smith
Hatton Garden
.Rebus
" Smith
ليس من الضروري أن تكون من
لطالما اقترن خاتم الختم بالطبقة الراقية من المجتمع البريطاني ، إلا أنّه رائج اليوم ويجذب موجة جديدة من الزبائن إلى قول
بما أنّ علامة بريطانيّة الصُنع، تستثمر في المواهب المحليّة. يقول "يعمل كلّ العطّارين لدينا في متجرنا في شارع ويخضعون لتدريبات معمّقة مذهلة. وقد بدأ أبرز عطّارَين بينهما العمل لدينا منذ 17 سنة فصقلنا مهاراتنا معاً ونتطوّر كفريقٍ واحد باستمرار. ونظراً إلى أنّنا شركة بريطانيّة متجذّرة في لندن، ثمّة صلة وثيقة بيننا وبين الصناعة المحليّة
:Bodenham
قوّة الزهور
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从历史悠久的英国品牌选购商品,如同进行 一项优质投资,其回报价值是毋庸置疑的。 尽管有许多总部位于英国的全球制造业巨头 ——其中既包括久经考验的老牌,也有新兴 企业——但鼓励在本土进行手工制作的历史 和文化,使人们只要想买能经受住时间考验 的产品,就会首选英国。无论您是要寻找新 的香水、服饰产品还是手工无可挑剔的图章 戒指,都会有一个英国品牌如您所愿。
Floris的企业发展如童话故事一般,遥遥领 先于诸多品牌。“我们仍然在伦敦杰明街 (Jermyn Street)的老店里经营业务, 1730年这家公司就是在这里成立的, ”Floris的第9代所有者、香水总监Edward Bodenham说。“我们的所有产品都在英国 生产。我们的核心价值观就是英国制造, 以及通过对原材料和生产方式的掌控, 来实现(对环境的)可持续性。”可持续性 是大多数品牌关注的问题,但Floris渴望确 保它不仅是一个热门词汇。Bodenham说: “在减少碳足迹的同时,将盈利重新投入我 们的经济体非常重要。”他补充说,Floris 是英国最早的香水公司之一,其作为该行业 领导者的影响力“不可低估”。
做为“英国制造”的品牌,Floris亦投资于本土 香水人才。“我们的调香师全都在杰明街的商 店与我一起工作,并且接受了非常广泛的培训。 ” Bodenham说,“我的两名顶级调香师和我 共事的时间加在一起有17年了,因此我们精 诚合作,在建立自己核心技能的基础上, 不断发展团队。作为英国所有企业,并植根 于我们在伦敦的宝贵传统,我们牢牢把握住 了本地制造这一优势。”
Rebus的商店位于伦敦珠宝区哈顿花园 (Hatton Garden)的心脏地带,地理位 置完美,以实惠的价格提供个性化的戒指。 雕刻姓名缩写的起价为100英镑,而维多利亚 风格冠冕徽章的镌刻价格为320英镑。物品包 装在带有蜡封的精美礼盒中,您很难找到价格 比这更合理的手工礼物了。由Rebus工匠组 成的团队在现场出品90%的总产量。Smith 说:“我们还没开始做宝石镶嵌。”他补充道, 一名员工目前正在学习这种手艺。“但是, 哈顿花园(Harton Garden)的优点在于, 我们和所有业内专家彼此相邻,所以戒指只 需在同一条路上往返于店家即可。”
图章戒指在历史上与英国社会上层人士联系 在一起,而现在成为了潮流,这给Rebus 带来了大量新客源。Smith说,“您不必成为 世袭士绅的一员,也不必拥有家族徽章—— 您可以随心所欲地创造您想要的图案。许多 人不再遵从世袭的图案,而是在建立属于自 己的象征意义。”
客户可以带来具有个人意义、表现自我态度 的情绪板,并与Rebus合作创建独特的设计。 设计图稿被客户认可后,大约需要八周的时 间来生产定制产品。Smith说:“我们可以做 任何事情。”而且他真的可以做出任何创意, 如一只猫抽烟斗,群马驰骋在银河系中, 都是颇令人遐想联翩的设计。
另一个以其英国制造产品而自豪的品牌是 Hemingsworth,该公司精选来自国外的 原材料,例如珍珠母贝纽扣和高技术面料, 为事业繁忙的绅士裁制服装。创始人 Matt Jones表示:“当然,在制造这个环节, 必须选在英国,对我们来说就是伦敦。 ”Hemingsworth将“传统的萨维尔街 (Savile Row)剪裁与最先进的材料和面 料设计”相融合,创造出令人赞叹的新产品, 包括Clipper游泳短裤。这些服饰产品都在 塞尔弗里奇(Selfridges)和福南梅森 (Fortnum&Mason)百货有售, 到2020年亦将入驻哈罗德(Harrods) 和芬尼克(Fenwick)百货。
Jones说:“我们将一丝不苟的合身度、 永不过时的风尚、搭配多样的款式和奢华精 美的材料融合在一起。”Clipper短裤由29 块面料制成,经过17个手工完成的阶段, 然后才从伦敦工厂出品。“我们已经为泳裤开 发出了第一条整体腰带,可随着穿着者的动 作而自如伸缩,并配有法式拉链,以使短裤 前部保持平坦。这些功能性细节融入了大量 研究,是我们客户在选购时的关键考量。”
对于Hemingsworth而言,在英国本土生 产至关重要。“鉴于我们裁制过程所需要的复 杂性和质量水平,在世界上确实没有其他地方 可以生产我们的产品。作为英国品牌, 非常重要的一点是,我们支持本土经济发展, 将盈利再投资于英国的工厂、人员和技能。 前几代人在英国制造业中备受追捧的声誉必 须得到承认,而且传统必须继续下去。”
Rebus的Emmet Smith也认同这一看法。 他说:“英式风情蜚声世界,无论是萨维尔街 还是哈顿花园。我们以创新、时尚和艺术而 闻名。成为这个群体的一部分真的很棒。”
在Floris坚守旧时阵线的同时,令人振奋的 年轻英国品牌也为自己赢得了名声。Rebus 是一家相对较新的公司,成立于1971年, 主要生产手工雕刻的图章戒指、吊坠和袖扣。 企业初创时关注公对公的手工雕刻业务,而从 2005年开始,总经理Emmet Smith将业务 重点放在了雕刻珠宝上。他说:“我在一家名叫 R H Wilkins的公司做了五年学徒。”当他完成 培训后,发现老板想退休,于是他买下了这家 公司,然后决定直接面向消费者。他回忆说: “我们看到很多其他高街珠宝商生产的图章戒指, 这些戒指不是很好——有点薄,歪歪扭扭。 我觉得自己可以做得更好。”
英国制造
手工艺是英国传统的重要组成部分,多种多 样的品牌扎根本土,不断生产出高质量精品。 Sally McIlhone为您详述
长久以来,从柑橘味道的柠檬香脂到薰衣草 花束,或绣线菊那蜂蜜般的甜香,英国所产 气味芬芳的花草已在人们生活的许多方面发 挥了关键作用。在中世纪,药剂师和草药师 利用这些植物的治疗功效,并随身携带许多 花草来抵御疾病。在17世纪和18世纪,皇家 宫廷中布满了鲜花和草药,例如薰衣草、 鼠尾草和玫瑰,以掩盖令人不悦的气味。 医学的进步导致植物在此领域逐渐式微, 转而主攻化妆品行业,其芳香品质被普遍认 可为香水的重要成分。
距伦敦仅两小时车程的多塞特郡(Dorset) 有一座Keyneston Mill植物花园,将英式 花园的丰富魅力融入其迷人的香水生产中。 这里专门种植气味芬芳和有香味的植物, 将其收获后蒸馏出香水,并冠以Parterre 品牌出售。共同创始人Julia Bridger解释说: “我们想探索以前从未在香水中使用过或者很 长时间没有使用过的非常规植物成分。 有很多芳香植物在传统上并不受调香师青睐, 而我们愿意去尝试些新鲜成分,并乐在其中。” 她补充道,自己“惊讶地发现,很多热爱香水 的人对关键成分来源——植物——的知识却 非常有限。我相信,这就是为什么游客们想 探访我们的花园。在这里他们可以闻到叶子 和花朵的气味,并了解如何将其转变为香水。”
Tom Daxon Bowers于2013年创立了自己 的同名品牌,他也承认英国花园对其的影响。 他说:“这里蕴含着非常丰富的传统,如花 园小道般引领你走入甜美密境。想想那里有 多少英国玫瑰在盛开着。我们的玫瑰香水 Crushing Bloom就取灵感于我妈妈的玫 瑰花园,那里有硕大的、Tim Burton风格 的玫瑰植物。我希望香水能展现出这种意境, 而不是到处都能闻到的那种传统而谦恭的玫 瑰香味。”
Tom Daxon的Crushing Bloom代表了一 批类似的高级玫瑰精制香水,它们都非比寻常。 Sinisi说:“2020年春夏,我们将看到玫瑰香 水市场全面开花。从经典到果味和东方风味, 都会有玫瑰花香调适配各种喜好。”
在哈罗德百货有售的许多英国香水品牌都有自 己对玫瑰花的独到见解,如Penhaligon’s 的“梦寐以求的公爵夫人玫瑰”The Coveted Duchess Rose,Roja Parfums的“五月玫瑰” Rose De Mai,以及Jo Malone的“红玫瑰” Red Roses。Floris推出东方花卉情调的 A Rose For香水,而Parterre的A Tribute to Edith则取灵感于上世纪二十年代,将出人 意料的香调融合在一起,如Bridger所解释的: “玫瑰香味的天竺葵精油带出柑橘和薄荷气味, 创造了比纯玫瑰油更加现代、更新鲜的感觉。 令人意想不到的西洋蓍草和从印蒿中提炼的 白兰地香气,更使这款香水魅力独具,并带 有一点前卫气质,非常适合2020年代。” 尽管玫瑰通常被认为是非常经典的香味, 但这些新产品确切证明了英国的领先品牌已开 辟出大量的革新空间,打造出新颖的调制方法。
英国最好的“鼻子”所创造香水种类之多, 让顾客拥有纷繁选择。就像该国美不胜收的 花园一样,英国调香师为我们奉上的花香宝 库也提供了令人陶醉的全面感官享受。
典型英式花园的历史可以追溯到18世纪初, 当时的品味从法式花园的古典主义转向自然 惬意的景观呈现。这些美丽的空间提供了丰 富的感官体验,影响和启发了无数的艺术家、 作家、音乐家,当然还有英国调香师。
花瓣的力量
英国花园的芬芳花朵数百年来一 直激发着调香师的灵感,至今依然。 Ginger Rose Clark为您详述
伦敦的百货商店是探索该国香水的最佳场所, 无论传统抑或前卫,均有上乘选择。“我们为 哈罗德百货(Harrods)所出售的英国香水 而感到自豪,这里精心挑选了Penhaligon's、 Roja Parfums、Boadicea the Victorious、 Clive Christian、Jo Malone、Ormonde Jayne和Atkinsons等品牌,”这家著名商店 的香水买手Federica Sinisi说。