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A fine timepiece should be a keystone of everyday dressing – NET-A-PORTER’s fashion and fine jewelry experts select the timepieces that speak to them and share their watch wardrobing style tips.
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The six watches that NET-A-PORTER editors want to wear now
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Watches and Wonders
We all have at least one digital device that can expertly keep track of the time, so why do we love wearing a fine timepiece? CHARLIE BOYD speaks to a cohort of collectors, tastemakers and journalists to discover the true value of investing in a luxury timepiece.
Why we love to wear watches in 2021
Our Top 10 Essential Watch Accessories Architect Mr Nick Tobias’ Top Three Watches NBA Star Mr Rudy Gay's MVP Watch Edit Inside The Mind Of A Watch Collector
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Baume & Mercier Cartier H. Moser & Cie HERMÈS TIMEPIECES IWC Schaffhausen Jaeger-LeCoultre Montblanc Panerai Piaget Roger Dubuis Vacheron Constantin
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The six watches that NET-A-PORTER... Why we love to wear watches in 2021...
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Cartier Hermès Jaeger-LeCoultre IWC Schaffhausen Piaget Vacheron Constantin
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HERMÈS TIMEPIECES
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Baume & Mercier
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Roger Dubuis
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We’ve selected 10 tempting accoutrements to your watch wardrobe: added luxuries that will make any watch collection just that little bit more complete
My Three Watch Wardrobe: Architect And Designer Mr Nick Tobias
MR PORTER Style Council member Mr Nick Tobias is one of Australia’s foremost architects and interior designers. Here, he shares his perfectly curated watch trio
The Utah Jazz power forward has chalked up more than 1,000 games in the NBA – and built a formidable watch collection. But could he live with just three?
My Three Watch Wardrobe: NBA Veteran Mr Rudy Gay
Straps, Winders And Travel Cases: The Watch Accessories Your Collection Needs
What does it really mean to collect watches? To find out, we speak to the men and women most affected by this most irrational, anachronistic and irresistible hobby
On My Watch: Three Collectors Share The Highs, Lows And Oddities Of Watch Collecting
Welcome to your Watches and Wonders luxury watch guide – featuring the latest releases from a selection of the world’s finest watchmakers
watchmakers
Clifton Baumatic Moon-Phase
This update to Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic carefully incorporates a moon-phase indicator and date to the clean, 1950s-inspired dial – notable for its porcelain-like finish and crisp, rhodium-plated elongated hour markers. The steel case and bracelet make it an excellent all-rounder.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel and Alligator leather Movement: Automatic with five-day power reserve
Riviera Automatic
Baume & Mercier’s Riviera watch was first launched in the 1970s to reflect the Côte d’Azur’s luxurious heyday. Designed with a screwed-down dodecagonal stainless-steel bezel and integrated bracelet, its patterned blue dial recalls the glinting waves of the Mediterranean.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic with 38-hour power reserve
Clifton Club
Set on a soft suede strap, the Clifton Club is encased in satin-finished bronze set with a green unidirectional rotating bezel – a sportier design element recalling dive watches from the 1960s and 1970s. The grey-brown dial is uncluttered with luminous hands and hour markers.
Size: 42mm Material: Bronze and Suede Movement: Automatic with 42-hour power reserve
Classic design with a comprehensive range of complications, producing quality timepieces at accessible price points. The recent introduction of the Riviera and Clifton Baumatic ranges has cemented the brand as a true all-rounder
Rhodium-plated applied numerals
50m water resistance
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100m water resistance
Case thickness: 10.6mm
Unirotational dive watch bezel
Riviera Chronograph
Created in 1973, just one year after Mr Gérald Genta ripped up the rulebooks with his octagonal Royal Oak design for Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier went four better with its own, 12-sided luxury sports watch in steel and integrated bracelet. Now it has been revived for 2021, driven by the industry’s tried-and-tested Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic with 48-hour power reserve
Chronograph minutes at 12, hours at six
Ballon Bleu Automatic
Named for the blue cabochon on the crown that appears to float within the balloon-like case, the Ballon Bleu runs on Cartier’s 1847 MC movement, and has a silver guilloché dial, sword-shaped hands and Roman numerals (including the “secret signature” at seven o’clock).
Size: 40mm Material: Stainless Steel and Alligator Leather Movement: Automatic with 42-hour power reserve
Tank Louis Cartier
More than a century on, Cartier’s Tank is one of the most recognisable watches in the world. One of a trio of richly colourful editions released this year, this blue model celebrates the Art Deco origins of the Tank design.
Size: 33.7mm x 25.5mm Material: Pink Gold and Alligator Leather Movement: Hand-wound with 38-hour power reserve
Santos de Cartier
Recently revived with modernised lines, improved movements and a quick-release strap-changing system, the Santos de Cartier may trace its origins all the way back to 1904 but in its full-gold guise, is best known as an icon of 1980s style.
Size: 40mm Material: Pink Gold Movement: Automatic with 42-hour power reserve
The jeweller of kings is also a watchmaker of high renown. Cartier has sealed its place in watchmaking history with some of the 20th century’s best designs. No other watchmaker blends function and form with such panache
The dial is a nod to the Tank’s Art Deco origins
Cased in 18k pink gold
Cartier “secret signature” at seven o’clock
The Ballon Bleu is named for its rounded crown
Water resistant to 30m
Tank Must
Cartier’s stainless steel watch is a revival of a model circa 1977 – its design showcases the Tank family’s characteristics with understated simplicity, from the case brancards to the Roman numerals and train-track chapter ring detailing the dial. The original historically debuted during the Quartz Crisis, and the new edition maintains the precise – and highly convenient – technology.
Size: 33.7mm x 25.5mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Swiss-made calibre quartz movement
Pin buckle-fastening black leather (Calf) strap
Sapphire glass crystal
Pioneer Centre Seconds Automatic
Pairing a “blue lagoon” gradient shaded dial with a bright turquoise strap, this Pioneer is one of the brand’s sportiest yet. It borrows the luminous hands of the Streamliner range and under close inspection reveals a subtle logo on the sapphire crystal.
Size: 43mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: In-house Automatic with 3-day power reserve
From the front, H. Moser’s blue fumé dial shines out against the matte-finished case and casual rubber strap. From the back, it’s all about the traditional Côtes de Genève finishing of the in-house calibre HMC 200 automatic, visible thanks to the openworked automatic rotor.
Size: 43mm Material: DLC-coated Stainless Steel and Rubber Movement: In-house Automatic with 3 day power reserve
Endeavour Tourbillon Ox’s Eye
Singlehandedly bringing back the flamboyant glamour of hard-stone dials, H. Moser’s Ox’s Eye was one of the standout releases of Watches and Wonders 2021. Paired with an in-house tourbillon movement, it’s enough of a statement not to need anything else on the dial.
Size: 40mm Material: Red Gold and Calf Leather Movement: In-house Automatic Tourbillon 72-hour power reserve
A storied name with centuries of history, revived in the 21st century and soon renowned for its daring, individual approach, both aesthetically and technically. Its latest design, the Streamliner, stands out among the steel-cased competition
Trademark “fumé” dial
“Streamliner” Luminous hands
120m water resistance
DLC-coated case
Each stone dial is totally unique
No logo – a H. Moser speciality
Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
Back in the mid-Noughties, H. Moser & Cie. propelled itself into our collective conscience with a perpetual calendar of formidable elegance (to wit, a tiny central “month” hand using the hour indices – harder than it looks). This concept now finds itself further into the future, integrating bracelet, unrivalled mechanics, biomorphic case design, all as one sliver of sci-fi brilliance.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: In-house Automatic Perpetual Calendar 168-hour power reserve
Month indicator on discreet central hand
Finely polished integrated bracelet
Arceau Grande Lune
In creating the Grande Lune, Hermès delivers a sizeable dress watch without losing any of the elegance of the original 1978 Arceau. The dial boasts meticulous finishing, from the radial brushing beneath the Breguet-style hours to the calendar and moon-phase subdials.
Size: 43mm Material: Stainless Steel and Alligator Leather Movement: Automatic with moon-phase and 42-hour power reserve
Arceau Squelette
The Arceau Squelette combines a fondness for shaded dials with that of skeletonisation, using a “smoked” mineral crystal dial that tantalisingly reveals a glimpse into the workings of the movement beneath. It’s a fascinating update to the line, which retains its characteristic stirrup-shaped lugs.
Size: 40mm Material: Stainless Steel and Alligator Leather Movement: Automatic with 38-hour power reserve
H08
The first attempt from Hermès to enter the competitive world of mainstream “sports” watches, the H08 was hailed as a runaway success at launch, combining a subtlety of design and intricate use of typography with all the sturdy build quality required of the category.
Size: 39mm Material: Ttianium and Rubber Movement: Automatic with 50-hour power reserver
A titan of the luxury world, Hermès has only recently dedicated its considerable talents to men’s watchmaking, yet has won plaudits for its rigorous commitment to quality coupled with thoughtful and quirky design
The triple calendar is set via recessed buttons on the case
Distinctive asymmetric case design
A shaded mineral crystal dial hints at the movement below
The lugs are inspired by a set of stirrups
Lightweight titanium case
Compass style seconds hand
Slim d’Hermès Squelette
With a clever juxtaposition of bead-blasted titanium case-middle, topped by precious platinum bezel and white-gold crown a satisfying coherence is lent to this otherwise effortless exercise in mesmeric, airy “skeleton” architecture. A double moon-phase display, also openworked, pirouettes beneath slender blue hands, in keeping with Hermès’ typical, Parisienne whimsy.
Size: 39.5mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium with Platinum Bezel Movement: Automatic with moon-phase 48-hour power reserve
Stick-thin heat-treated stainless steel hands
Openworking reveals the movement’s contemporary finishing
Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph
The most maximalist of IWC’s chronographs, the Portugieser Yacht Club bolsters the familiar ’12 and 6’ dial layout with a 12-hour totaliser nestled within the minute counter, and adds crown guards, sturdier “pump” pushers and a chunkier case – as befits something intended for seafaring action. This model adds a dose of Mediterranean glamour with the two-tone steel and rose gold case.
Size: 44mm Material: Stainless Steel and Red Gold Movement: Automatic Chronograph with 60 hour power reserve
Big Pilot’s Automatic Perpetual Calendar
Combining a rightfully celebrated movement – IWC’s gamechanging in-house perpetual calendar movement, with all functions (year, month, day, date) adjusted via the crown alone, with a truly iconic design in the form of the Big Pilot case, descended from the brand’s navigator chronometer designs of WWII, this is a true heavyweight in every sense.
Size: 46mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic Perpetual Calendar 168-hour power reserve
Pilot’s Automatic Chronograph
Proving that pilot watches needn’t always be monochrome, this sumptuous evolution of IWC’s cult classic is enough to turn anyone a similarly emerald shade of envy, the dial shimmering in perfect harmony with the tan calfskin strap. On the reverse, it is strictly business, with column-wheel-controlled chronograph mechanics keeping rock solid time on proceedings.
Size: 41mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic Chronograph with day and date 44-hour power reserve
Since 1868, IWC has been a pioneer of both innovation and sustainability, crafting timepieces from its base on the river Rhine for use in cockpits, on racing circuits and beyond. Today, the manufacture is carbon neutral
Recently upgraded with in-house Calibre 89361
60m water resistance
Eight-year warranty available
North and South hemisphere indicators for the moon-phase
Recently redesigned in a smaller case
Pilot’s Automatic Laureus Sport For Good Edition
For all of 15 years, IWC’s partnership with the Laureus Sport for Good foundation has helped support hundreds of children’s sports programmes around the world. Now, the boffins of SCHAFFHAUSEN are finding themselves inspired in their own right, toying with blue-tone ceramic for a very special take on the brand’s totemic aviator watch.
Size: 39mm Material: Ceramic and rubber/textile strap Movement: Automatic with five day power reserve
IWC’s first Pilot in blue ceramic
Polaris Mariner Memovox
Post-war, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s programmable, hammer-alarm wristwatches were perfect for the era’s newly mobile businessman – but it was a shortlived Polaris diving version that keeps the Memovox name alive today. The ultimate being this handsome devil, with a deep-blue-sea dial whose indices glow with the intensity of an anglerfish.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic with 45-hour power reserve
Master Control Calendar Automatic Chronograph
For self-confessed watch nerds at least, this golden boy manages the treble in particularly suave fashion: a rare horological combination of chronograph, triple calendar (note the rakish flash of burgundy lettering) plus moon phase display. All in a day’s work for the brand considered by many to be the “watchmaker’s watchmaker”.
Size: 40mm Material: Rose Gold Movement: Automatic Chronograph with Full Calendar and Moon-phase Power reserve
Master Ultra-Thin Moon-Phase
If we had our way, every moon-phase indication would have a dial as black as the night sky (stands to reason, right?) and it would be as flawless as the sunray-polished rhodium plate you see here, engineered by the Vallée de Joux’s maestro of understated elegance. A fairytale for the wrist.
Size: 39mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic with Moon-phase Power reserve
Called the “watchmaker’s watchmaker” for its history of supplying movements to almost all of Switzerland’s biggest names, Jaeger-LeCoultre is arguably the most capable manufacturer out there, with mastery of the 180 skills required to make a watch
Central indicator displays the Memovox alarm function
300m water resistance
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first triple-calendar chronograph
Burgundy lettering on the day and month windows
70-hour power reserve
The Master timepieces from Switzerland’s grandmaster of in-house, high horology are as cool, calm and collected as they come – and in midnight blue, demand a tuxedo tailored by Savile Row’s finest. The clean sunray dial positively radiates about the moon phase here, like a sharp evening sky, while reverse-side the constellation of parts comprising the 925AA movement tick and twinkle.
Moon phase accurate to one day in 122 years
New this year with blue dial
1858 Automatic
Don’t be thrown by 1858 – this is entirely inspired by the plucky Alpinists of the 1930s, crampons, Kendall mint cakes and all. Hence the retro logo and tropes drawn from fine-tuned timers by Montblanc’s historical imprint, Minerva. As for the ceramic bezel’s cardinal points? Far from cosmetic, they could get you out of an icy bind, if you know how.
Size: 40mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic with 38-hour power reserve
Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Automatic Chronograph
Mr Nicolas Rieussec is known for creating the first “ink-drop” chronograph in 1821 –cleverly transformed by Montblanc from wooden shoebox proportions to wristwatch. Echoing Rieussec’s paper disc system, one-minute and 30-minute subdial counters rotate against fixed hands rather than vice versa.
Size: 45mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic Chronograph with 72-hour power reserve
Heritage Monopusher Automatic Chronograph
Remember using those red pillboxes dotted about your neighbourhood? Back when they were used to telephone someone, rather than borrow a book or grab a handy defibrillator… This beautiful throwback does. A chronograph on a Milanese bracelet operated via a single pusher, its minutes subdial calibrated to three, six and nine minutes to ensure your old pennies last the conversation.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic Monopusher Chronograph with 48-hour power reserve
Montblanc, originally known for luxury writing instruments, has a short yet vibrant history in fine watchmaking. With the horological abilities of heritage chronograph specialist Minerva at its disposal, it has forged a reputation for stylish, exciting watches
Blue fumé dial
Day-night indicator at nine o’clock
Guilloché dial pattern
Multi-textured dial finishes
48-hour power reserve
1858 Geosphere
Reinterpreting the classic Minerva watches used by explorers in the 1930s, Montblanc’s 1858 goes one further with its two-time-zone Geosphere, summoning that retro Alpine spirit via the Seven Summits challenge: the holy grail of mountaineering. Each peak is marked on the hemispherical globes, turning in opposite directions, and now in icy monochrome.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic GMT with 42-hour power reserve
Limited to 858 pieces
“Distressed” stainless steel case finish
Luminor Chrono Luna Rossa
Designed for the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team to wear at the America’s Cup, this chronograph packs the new P.9200 calibre and comes fitted on a durable Sportech™ strap. For the real ocean-going experience, however, it also includes a white rubber alternative, plus the tools necessary to swap them.
Size: 44mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic Chronograph with 42-hour power reserve
Submersible OroCarbo
Here’s a prime example of Panerai’s ability to combine its mid-century heritage equipping covert, military frogmen with 21st-century materials innovation. In-house mechanics are hermetically sealed by a Goldtech™ case topped with a carbon-composite rotating bezel; both supremely durable and lightweight.
Size: 44mm Material: Goldtech™ and Carbon fibre Movement: Automatic with 72-hour power reserve
Radiomir
From flashlights to compasses, Panerai was crucial to the Italian Navy back in the 1940s, but having migrated from Florence to Neuchâtel, it’s all about the watches today, and how. This take on the Radiomir, complete with a murky sea-green dial stencilled to reveal the luminescent layer beneath is a heroic tribute.
Size: 48mm Material: Ceramic Movement: Hand-wound with 72-hour power reserve
Founded in Florence, and headquartered at a Swiss manufacture, Panerai’s heart will always belong to diving watches. But the brand has recently found a rich seam of inventiveness in sustainability, material science and high complications
Luna Rossa racing stripe on the strap
“Goldtech” case is strengthened with platinum
Black ceramic case
Drilled lugs for easy strap changes
Submersible
Panerai’s Submersible builds on the iconic heritage of the diving watches developed by the Florentine instrument maker for the Italian Navy in the 1940s, its crown protected by a levered clasp, which came along in the 1950s. The in-house movement offers a three-day power reserve, so it’ll still be ticking come Monday if you’ve been wearing something other than a wetsuit all weekend.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic with 72-hour power reserve
The minute hand and bezel pip glow blue, while all others are green
Polo Automatic Chronograph
Since taking the 1980s jet-set by storm, the Piaget Polo has remained a fixture of the Riviera, evolving into this cushion-cased yachty type. A sea-breeze of contrast to the brand’s more formal fare, but still brandishing horological hardware that belies the pricepoint, with a stopwatch that operates as crispy as sailcloth.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic Chronograph with 50-hour power reserve
Altiplano Ultimate
At a wafer-like 4.3mm, Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate is one of the world's thinnest automatic watches – all down to the groundbreaking 910P calibre. Its gold, black-coated rotor spins circumferentially about, rather than on top of, a movement whose 219 parts sit on a case that doubles as its inner baseplate.
Size: 41mm Material: White Gold Movement: Automatic with 48-hour power reserve
Altiplano Hand-Wound
Since 1957, the Altiplano has been Piaget’s champion of ultra-thin watchmaking. This being the dressiest iteration in 18-karat rose-gold, measuring just 6mm in height, so it won’t catch on your shirt cuff. The mechanics might have evolved to modern standards, but that silvered dial is still as timeless as the sweeping, Bolivian landscape it was originally named after.
Size: 38mm Material: Rose Gold Movement: Hand-Wound with 43-hour power reserve
Founded in 1874, Piaget is best known for its mastery of ultra-thin watchmaking, as seen in its sophisticated Altiplano range. Recently, it has also revitalised its 1980s staple, creating a versatile luxury sports watch with the Polo
Brushed and polished finishes contrast on the case
Automatic rotor spins around the edge of the movement
Only 4.3mm thick from top to bottom
Ultra-minimalist mid-century dial
Solid, engraved case back
Polo Skeleton
The 1970s were a golden era not only for Piaget – its sporty-luxe Polo a fixture of discotheques Mediterranean-wide – but also for one of Switzerland’s more esoteric breed of craftsman; the skeleton dial engraver. Combining both in super-slimline fashion, a judicious sprinkling of diamonds now teleports you poolside at Hotel Byblos, Campari in hand.
Size: 42mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic with 44-hour power reserve
Ultra-thin skeleton movement with micro-rotor
Bezel set with 55 brilliant-cut diamonds
Excalibur Spider Huracán STO Limited Edition
The latest fruit of Roger Dubuis’ partnership with Lamborghini, this watch honours the Huracán STO limited edition with a carbon case, Gulf-oil reminiscent colour scheme and a hybrid leather-and-rubber strap engraved on the underside with Pirelli’s Trofeo R pattern. The openworked dial is a nod to the Lambo’s engine bay, complete with inclined balance wheel.
Size: 45mm Material: Carbon Fibre and DLC Titanium Movement: Automatic with 60-hour power reserve
Excalibur EON Double Flying Tourbillon
Encased by Geneva’s top-flight enfant terrible of watchmaking’s EON gold, resistant to tarnish for a lifetime, this ultimate iteration of its Excalibur range thrusts and parries with suitable swashbuckle by entwining its dual flying tourbillion carriages within a dramatically skeletonised dial.
Size: 45mm Material: Rose Gold Movement: Hand-Wound Double Flying Tourbillon Power reserve
Excalibur Spider Black
Diamond-like-carbon coats the titanium case with brooding stealth, while a honeycombed dial frames the beating, tumbling heart of Roger Dubuis’ 510SQ movement – a tourbillon, flying atop a single bridge. Cased in a smaller diameter than the brand’s usual showstoppers, this has all of the punch in a more wearable package.
Size: 39mm Material: DLC Titanium Movement: Hand-wound Flying Tourbillon Power reserve
Roger Dubuis is known for its intricate, innovative complications and boundary-pushing approach. Exotic case materials house skeletonised double-sprung balances, Lamborghinis are a regular inspiration and everything is certified by the Geneva Seal of quality
Hexagonal motif follows Lamborghini designs
Limited to 88 pieces
Trademark star-shaped skeltonised bridges
Rubber-inlaid titanium bezel
Excalibur Cobalt Blue
If Messrs Jerry Bruckheimer and Don Simpson had turned their white chinos to watchmaking rather than action blockbusters during the 1980s, this is where they’d get: pure horological adrenaline, its tomcat tourbillon realised with high craft and brio in equal measure.
Size: 42mm Material: Cobalt CarTech Alloy Movement: Hand-Wound Tourbillon with 72-hour power reserve
All-new titanium tourbillon carriage
Historiques American 1921
A whole century on, the quirky flair of Vacheron Constantin’s bid for the American market during the Roaring Twenties remains as relevant and exciting still. Designed with the same 45-degree angled dial for easy viewing at the wheel of one’s automobile, it’s enough to make Jay Gatsby himself jealous.
Size: 40mm Material: White Gold Movement: Hand-wound with 65-hour power reserve
Traditionelle Tourbillon Automatic
As Switzerland’s longest-running watchmaker, anything dubbed Traditionnelle will be a heart-on-sleeve tribute to horology’s hit parade at the hands of 260-year-old Vacheron Constantin. Taking pride of place on the dial is the fabled tourbillon, rotating once a minute and notable for the Maltese-cross carriage which takes days on end to hand-polish.
Size: 41mm Material: Rose Gold Movement: Automatic Tourbillon with 80-hour power reserve
Fiftysix Automatic
Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix is a more raffish bid for the relaxed, but informed millennial crowd. A petrol-blue sunburst dial, broken up by two concentric railroad track scales and the applied, sans-serif numerals, brings a contemporary feel – but one glance at the movement will reassure you that all the traditional expertise remains.
Size: 40mm Material: Stainless Steel Movement: Automatic with 48-hour power reserve
In business since 1755, Vacheron Constantin has mastered every watchmaking craft known to Switzerland. From the sporty nonchalance of the Fiftysix to the sober elegance of the Patrimony, your every watch need is covered
Chestnut calf leather strap
“Pomme” style hands
One-minute tourbillon with Maltese Cross carriage
30m water resistance
Luminous hands and hour markers
Just 9.6mm thick
Overseas Perpetal Calendar Ultra-Thin
There is literally no stone unturned chez Vacheron Constantin when it comes to complications, leaving the maison nonpareil open to toying in any which way with horology’s biggest hitters – in this case lifting the always-correct perpetual calendar to states of contemporary cool thanks to cobalt coloration and dynamic contouring.
Size: 41.5mm Material: White Gold Movement: Automatic Perpetual Calendar
Interchangeable straps
Geneva Seal certified
hat is art without a frame? A classic car without a tool kit and chamois leather?
W
Words by Ms Laura McCreddie-Doak
Wine without temperature-controlled storage, the finest glassware and at the very least, a waiter’s friend? What we’re getting at, of course, is that once one has a watch collection, you will inevitably find yourself in need of any number of accessories to go with it. There are straps ripe for swapping, leather-clad cases in which to transport your precious cargo, winders so your other prides and joy don’t seize up while you’re wearing one of their siblings, and beautifully appointed tool kits in case you need to embark on a little at-home maintenance. We’ve selected 10 tempting accoutrements to your watch wardrobe: added luxuries that will make any watch collection just that little bit more complete.
01.
Handcrafted in Milan and made from stainless steel, this tool kit is almost as perfectly calibrated as a Swiss watch movement. It has everything you need to indulge in a little at-home horology: a magnifying glass, ideal for checking for scratches; a watch knife, so you can easily remove a solid caseback; a brush, to clean those hard-to-reach spaces in between the strap and the lugs; tweezers and a multi-head screwdriver, all wrapped in a gorgeous lambs’ leather case. Who needs the after-care number now? (Disclaimer: overly brave efforts may well necessitate the after-care number – but don’t worry, we can help with that, too.)
Shop here
Lorenzi Milano Watch Repair Kit
Don’t hide your watches in a safe. With this fabulous five-watch leather case, you can make them a display item instead. The design is a collaboration between safe-and-winder maker Wolf and professional flâneur Mr Matt Hranek, style editor of Condé Nast Traveler, self-confessed explorer, eater and drinker, author of best-selling book, A Man & His Watch and lover of n egronis, the drink that inspired the tweed pattern lining the five spacious compartments inside the box.
02.
Wolf Leather Five-Piece Watch Box
03.
Rapport London + George Cleverley Watch Winder
Shop watch accessories here
Exclusive to MR PORTER, this watch winder deserves to wind only your most precious timepieces. It has been designed by storied British watch accessories and leather goods designer Rapport, in partnership with famed British shoemaker George Cleverley and is entirely made in the UK. The result is a rich, black and brown mottled outer, a door that looks like an old-school loudspeaker, and a soft leather cushion, spinning at three different speeds, to cosset your prized grand complication.
Looking for a watch winder you can squeeze into your hand luggage? This sleek Scatola del Tempo design is just the ticket. The front looks remarkably like a bi-colour bezel made famous by a certain coronated brand, it runs on batteries, and oscillates at 1,600 turns per day. It’s a classic combination of Swiss engineering and Italian style, which is why it looks great and runs like clockwork.
04.
Scatola Del Tempo Rotor One Watch Winder
Nothing transforms a watch as quickly and easily as a change of strap. A different colour can make a background detail, like lume, really pop. A style swap can take a design from dress to sporty with the twist of a screw. laCalifornienne is the brand you turn to when you want to add some much-needed sunshine to your wrist. Renowned for its brightly coloured stripes painted on pale tan leather, they are guaranteed to make you smile.
05.
laCalifornienne Watch Strap
It’s official, the 1990s are back. Bucket hats are everywhere and apparently the Boyz II Men uniform of blazers and baseball caps is suddenly de rigeur. Not sure whether camo trousers are going to make a full comeback, but you can give your watch a touch of retro flair with a camo strap from Horus. Made from durable rubber and easy to fit, you can switch up your watch in seconds. Just leave the wallet chain at home.
06.
Horus Watch Straps
You don’t have to be called Christian to appreciate complimentary shades of grey. But he’d definitely appreciate this minimalist, bull-leather covered case with three removable cushions and an interior lined with Alcantara, a sustainable synthetic textile manufactured to mimic suede. Designed by two Canadian engineers, it is a well-crafted, classic travel case that would make an excellent foil for your more colourful timepieces. Or your grey ones, if you’d rather.
07.
Charles Simon Eaton Travel Watch Case
hat is art without a frame? A classic car without a tool kit and chamois leather? Wine without temperature-controlled storage, the finest glassware and at the very least, a waiter’s friend? What we’re getting at, of course, is that once one has a watch collection,
you will inevitably find yourself in need of any number of accessories to go with it. There are straps ripe for swapping, leather-clad cases in which to transport your precious cargo, winders so your other prides and joy don’t seize up while you’re wearing one of their siblings, and beautifully appointed tool kits in case you need to embark on a little at-home maintenance. We’ve selected 10 tempting accoutrements to your watch wardrobe: added luxuries that will make any watch collection just that little bit more complete.
ne of Australia’s foremost architects and interior designers, Mr Nick Tobias brushes off the label of “watch collector”. But there’s no doubt that, given the chance to pick his three fantasy watches, the collector mindset comes easily – a mixture of professional appreciation and personal history. “I’m very
O
Words by Mr Chris Hall
attracted to the coming-together of beauty and technical things,” he says. “That’s a very architectural approach, so watches slot in quite nicely in that sense. “When I was in my mid-twenties and I’d started my architecture practice, I was doing a big project and I said to myself that if I hit a particular target, I’m just going to do something a bit outrageous and I’ll buy myself an expensive watch. I didn’t know a huge amount about watches, but nothing really caught my eye, until one guy at one of the bigger watch shops in town said he had some new samples in, and he was trying to decide whether to take them on as the Australian distributor. He said, ‘Oh, it’s a remake of an old watch, an old Italian brand – I don’t know how successful they’re going to be, but they had Rolex providing movements back in the day, it looks like being a quality watch.’ “He brought out five or six watches in a plastic zip-lock bag, just wrapped up in plastic. And of course they were Panerais, and I immediately thought, ‘I love it, it’s like nothing I’ve seen before.’ I did a cash deal on the spot and bought this beautiful Panerai Luminor. I went on to understand the Panerai story, with the Italian navy divers and their underwater missiles, and I thought only the Italians would try something so mad in warfare, but do it with such style. So, I was really hooked. I’m very sporty and tend to use things to death. I loved how durable that watch felt. I’ve still got it and I’ll probably use it for the rest of my life. Good things last, and often they get better with time.”
Perhaps unsurprisingly I’ve picked another Panerai for my fantasy collection,” Tobias says. “I went back and forth, but I’ve chosen the Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo Automatic because, I just thought, ‘What an awesome, tough-looking, ridiculous watch.’ It’s expensive, but still comes with a rubber strap… I couldn’t wear it swimming because I’d probably get weighed down and just go round in little circles, but I would wear it on the beach, do some watersports. I go open-water swimming every morning, and do a lot of paddle-boarding, and wing-foiling, which is a bit like windsurfing, but with a hydrofoil. It’s a pretty awesome looking beast, that watch.”
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Panerai Submersible OroCarbo Automatic Goldtech
Read Mr Nick Tobias’ Style Council recommendations
I look at this watch and I remember my parents in the 1980s, partying when things were hot. There weren’t that many good or enduring designs that came out of the 1980s, but this thing absolutely is. I love how it looks like you can see how all the components are put together, with the visible screws, but there’s also something about it that’s incredibly relaxed. You can doll it up with a suit to look smart, but it still looks like a great watch if you’re kicking around in a pair of board shorts and a T-shirt as well. But, for me, it’s all about my parents. They each had one of these in different sizes. My sister still wears one of them, so I saw that and thought, ‘I would love that watch’. Obviously it’s not an industrial, Miesian, form-follows-function thing, but I can go along with it.”
Cartier Santos
Finally, I picked this out as a really great day-to-day, good old architect’s watch. I like the black case – it’s really simple, very Swiss-looking to me. It’s a thinner, more wearable watch than the Panerai, it doesn’t feel as precious. I like the practicality of the textile strap; it feels military-inspired, and overall this watch is much more in the form-follows-function camp. Across the three watches, I wanted a good balance, which is why I went for that Panerai over one of their more regular ones, because there I have the all-guns-blazing, flashy, on your superyacht one. The IWC is the hyper-functional, hyper-honest watch, and the Cartier is very relaxed, super-chic.”
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Pilot’s TOP GUN Automatic
“He brought out five or six watches in a plastic zip-lock bag, just wrapped up in plastic. And of course they were Panerais, and I immediately thought, ‘I love it, it’s like nothing I’ve seen before.’ I did a cash deal on the spot and bought this beautiful Panerai Luminor. I went on to understand the Panerai story, with the Italian navy divers and their underwater missiles, and I thought only the Italians would try something so mad in warfare, but do it with such style. So, I was really hooked. I’m very sporty and tend to use things to death. I loved how durable that watch felt. I’ve still got it and I’ll probably use it for the rest of my life. Good things last, and often they get better with time.”
tah Jazz power forward Mr Rudy Gay recently played his 1,000th basketball game in the NBA – a milestone he chose to mark with a new watch for his collection. “I’m not usually that kind of person but that day I just felt like I should commemorate myself somehow,” says Gay. “A thousand games is a
U
This is just a classy watch, man. It’s very regal. You can wear it with a suit, you can wear it casually. It’s a very classy watch – that’s Cartier. It will keep its look – you’ll pass this on to your kid. I have had Cartiers before; I had the Santos skeleton, and it’s a fantastic brand. But with this, it’s the presence of the full gold on the wrist – it’s exactly how I felt when I bought the Rolex Day-Date; it just says ‘I’ve made it’. I’m not someone to keep this for special occasions though – I’m that guy who’ll wear it whatever I’m doing; with sweatpants, with a suit, maybe even on the golf course. I’ll get my money’s worth. Some people have so many they leave them in the safe, but not me, I try to rotate them all. Some of my favourite watches have been my gold watches, so I wear them.”
Cartier Ballon Bleu
Read Mr Rudy Gay’s Style Council Recommendations
Man, I love skeleton watches. I just love seeing the mechanism. It adds a little bit to the watch, makes it smart and young. This Piaget surprised me because I didn’t know they had a skeleton like this; it intrigued me. I like that it’s super thin as well, I feel like that’s where a lot of watch companies are going. It’s more comfortable, and to be a skeleton and be that thin, the movements are just getting better and better. The stainless steel obviously is not too flashy, but you can still dress it up, and it’s pretty durable. It’s really smart to do it in steel – £28,000 is still a lot of money, but it makes it a lot more affordable for people. I don’t see the watch staying at this price for too long. People are going to pick this up – got to get it now.”
Piaget Polo Skeleton
I’ve always loved Panerai. It’s a bulky watch, but I’m a big guy so it doesn’t look too bulky on me. I’m 6ft 8, sometimes 6ft 9… It depends on my shoes, or who I’m standing next to. I had a rose-gold Panerai with a leather strap. This one, though, it looks pretty tactical. I put this set of three together so I had something for every situation and I didn’t want too much of the same thing. I switched it up, with your gold, your stainless, your skeleton. If I was going overboard I’d probably pick one more. I like Roger Dubuis, but I look at it and sometimes I love it and sometimes I think it’s a little too much. You have to dress accordingly with that. I know a couple of people with them, and I’ve been offered a couple, but I never pulled the trigger on one, for that reason – it’s a bit too much of a statement piece.”
Panerai Submersible
lot, and I felt it that day.” Over his 15 years and counting at the top level of the sport, Gay isn’t alone in amassing a decent array of watches (remember the Roger Dubuis in The Last Dance?) and has learnt a few collecting lessons along the way. “After my first year in the NBA I got my first ‘serious’ watch – an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. I got it from a friend of mine; he’s a little older than me and sat down and told me about the kind of watches I should get. Before that I hadn’t really gotten into the mechanics of it, I was just buying flashy ones, putting after-market diamonds on them, stuff like that. Now, I have a pretty good collection – I keep it around 10 – and at this point, if it’s not original I’m not interested.” Gay’s interest in watches predates his playing years, however; he credits his grandfather with instilling an appreciation of mechanical, analogue timekeeping in a digital age. “My grandfather always made me wear a watch when I was younger. You know, it was the beginning of the digital age, and I always wanted one of those that changed the TV channel, but he made me wear a normal, regular watch. And I always did. He had a gold watch with a leather strap, I’ll never forget it – he wore it on the inside of his wrist, like a lot of older guys. He wore it every day, and when I asked him what time it was he’d show me his watch and make me tell him.” As an experienced collector, Gay now tries to be “strategic” in his purchases – but doesn’t always succeed. “I look at what I have and try to fill in gaps, look for what I don’t have. But I just end up buying gold watches, to be honest. Although there’s a bit of a shortage right now. My name’s on all the waiting lists.”
“My grandfather always made me wear a watch when I was younger. You know, it was the beginning of the digital age, and I always wanted one of those that changed the TV channel, but he made me wear a normal, regular watch. And I always did. He had a gold watch with a leather strap, I’ll never forget it – he wore it on the inside of his wrist, like a lot of older guys. He wore it every day, and when I asked him what time it was he’d show me his watch and make me tell him.” As an experienced collector, Gay now tries to be “strategic” in his purchases – but doesn’t always succeed. “I look at what I have and try to fill in gaps, look for what I don’t have. But I just end up buying gold watches, to be honest. Although there’s a bit of a shortage right now. My name’s on all the waiting lists.”
elcome to On My Watch – a series of stories where we look to understand what it really means to collect watches, by speaking to those men and women most affected by this most irrational, anachronistic and irresistible hobby. Every few months we will be
Words by Mr Chris Hall Photograph by Valentina Voldinaci/Imaxtree
checking in with a trio of collectors for a snapshot into their habits, experiences and lessons learnt: we start with Mr Hassan Akhras, founder of Arab Watch Club, Mr James Marks, international watch specialist for renowned auction house Phillips, and Mr Matt Hranek, author of A Man & His Watch. Keep an eye on MR PORTER’s The Journal for the next instalment. There are many truisms around collecting, but perhaps none is more apt than this: while the community of watch collectors may be brought together by a shared love of mechanical timepieces, no two pursue this passion in the same way. Everyone has his or her own approach, and there are as many stories to tell as there are watches in the world.
Mr Hassan Akhras: I would consider my first watch my Breitling Chronomat that I bought almost 15 years ago. I started collecting much earlier, when I was at school, but my collection was more around brands like Casio and Sector. The Breitling was the first watch that actually started my current permanent collection – and I still have it. Mr James Marks: I don’t remember the specific watch, but it would have been a Swatch. It remains a brand that captivates me today; its design spans generations and it has an innocence, an almost childlike quality that is not seen elsewhere in the industry. Mr Matt Hranek: A Sears Winnie the Pooh analogue watch I got from my grandmother when I was five. And, yes, I do still have it.
What was your first watch?
JM: I have numerous watches that got away, but the one that hurts is the one where I listened to others and did not trust my gut. That was the Rolex Rainbow Daytona where I looked beyond the obvious and focused on the quality of the gem-setting and the rarity. It was a lesson and a mistake I will never repeat. HA: I don’t sell many watches, but I was too hasty in letting go of my FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu a few years ago – I was hesitant to sell it to a friend of mine who really wanted to wear that piece and at that time it was sitting in the watch box with little wrist time. After I let it go, it started growing on me more – I guess it’s also the attention they have been getting on social media. MH: Yes, I missed out on an “eagle beak” Gilt Rolex Submariner – so called for the distinctive shape of the crown guards, which look like the bird’s beak.
Do you have a “one that got away”? Or a watch you regret selling?
HA: I would love to own a Patek Philippe Tourbillon Minute Repeater in rose gold, the reference 5303R. It has two of the most impressive complications, and case finishing of the utmost luxury. MH: It has to be the Rolex Submariner 5508 – not the “James Bond”, which is the 6538, but one of the very earliest Submariner references. JM: Collecting is a journey, so my grail today might not be my grail of tomorrow. Right now the Patek Philippe 5004A remains the pinnacle of the journey for me – a stainless steel perpetual calendar chronograph with split seconds, of which only 50 were produced.
What’s your holy grail?
JM: The concept of overpaying is an interesting one. I believe you never overpay for quality, provenance or rarity, but you may be paying tomorrow’s price for the very best. As a collector that is not a mistake but a strategy. MH: I paid too much for a piece of crap Rolex 1675 GMT. I rushed the purchase where I should have been patient… I ended up selling it and well, not losing my shirt but it wasn’t a great deal. My impatience was foolish. On the other hand, I have found a few bargains. My proudest moment is one that, let’s face it, was a pure accident. I haves a Rolex 5513 Submariner that has turned tropical brown since I bought it for $1,700. HA: Thankfully I never paid too much for any watch. I only buy at retail and I don’t like to pay a premium. If I cannot find it, I either wait or I just decide to buy something else. Likewise, I don’t think I’ve ever really felt yet that I have snapped a watch under its real value in the market.
Have you ever paid too much for a watch – or snapped up a total bargain?
MH: I once saw a buddy’s watch that I coveted on a dealer’s desk after he just traded it in. I asked, “Is that so and so’s watch?” (A beauty of a 1675 GMT – not the one I mentioned earlier.) Somewhat surprised, the dealer said yes. I took my 16750 GMT off my wrist, dropped it on the desk and made the trade without hesitation. HA: I unexpectedly got the chance to buy not one, but two of my long-term targets in the same afternoon. I was walking the streets of Paris looking at watches with no intent to buy anything. I went into Audemars Piguet, who told me they had just received the Royal Oak skeleton 39mm in steel – a watch that I had wanted for so long – but told me I had 24 hours to make up my mind if I want it. I decided to finish my walk and come back to buy it. My last stop was the Patek Philippe boutique on the Place Vendôme. Purely speculatively, I asked if they had a 5711 Nautilus – they did, with the white dial, but it was spoken for. They let me try it on, and while I was wearing it, the manager of the store took a call. Minutes later he came back to me telling me the customer isn’t coming to pick it up and if I want it, it’s mine. I couldn’t resist this offer; I took the watch immediately and had to drop the AP.
Have you ever acquired a watch in unusual circumstances?
HA: It’s very important to know the value of what you are buying and remember this is a passion and not an investment vehicle. It’s very unlikely you will acquire wealth from all the watches you are buying. JM: The first is chasing reference and not quality, and the second is buying what is fashionable, running with the crowd. A collection is a living thing, it should change and stay ahead of the curve reflecting the passion of the individual. MH: Being impatient – as I was, and not waiting, and saving up enough to buy the correct watch.
What do you think is the biggest faux pas in watch collecting?
Tank Louis by Cartier
Named after the maison’s founder, this chic 34mm timepiece is crafted from 18-karat rose gold, complemented by a navy alligator strap.
Tank Must by Cartier
In rich claret, this 34mm steel timepiece with luxe leather strap revisits iconic Cartier designs of the 1970s and ’80s.
The dial, strap and crown are perfectly color-matched in this 34mm timepiece, expertly crafted in Switzerland.
A polished spinel cabochon crown is a precious accent to the green lacquered dial of this 34mm steel ‘Tank Must’ timepiece.
The 34mm ‘Tank Must’ is revived with a steel bracelet and signature accents, including elegant sword-shaped hands and refined Roman numerals.
Debuted in 1977, the cult ‘Tank Must’ design is reimagined here with a 22mm steel case and chic black leather strap.
Iconic French maison Cartier was founded in 1847 and has stood for horological excellence married with seminal style ever since. A rich archive of square and rectangular timepieces informs the sleek lines and sophisticated silhouettes of its ‘Tank’ timepieces – featuring neo-vintage designs that are as timeless as they are precious.
Spinel cabochon crown
Swiss-crafted caliber 1917 MC hand-wound movement
Cartier’s signature sword-shaped hands
Engrave-friendly caseback
Alligator strap
Silvered opaline dial
Blue spinel crown
Cartier’s signature Roman numerals
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The perfect marriage of French style and expert craftsmanship, Hermès has an extraordinary legacy of crafting luxury fashion and leather goods since 1837. The maison opened its dedicated watchmaking division in Switzerland in 1978 and continues to infuse each timepiece with the same artisanal excellence.
Heure H by Hermès Timepieces
The 17.2mm steel case of this ‘Heure H’ timepiece is illuminated with 84 diamonds, creating a precious accent to its elegant mother-of-pearl dial.
Faubourg Double Tour by Hermès Timepieces
Handmade in the brand’s Swiss workshop, this 18-karat rose gold timepiece flaunts a petite and playful 15.5mm dial, complemented by a double tour bracelet.
Nantucket by Hermès Timepieces
The stainless steel case of this contemporary timepiece is adorned with 89 diamonds, a sparkling complement to its pearl-gray alligator strap
Cape Cod by Hermès Timepieces
Crafted from polished stainless steel, this 23mm timepiece features the maison’s signature chaîne d’ancre motif upon the dial and scintillates with 142 diamonds.
Nantucket Dual Time by Hermès Timepieces
This 22mm timepiece showcases a lacquered and aventurine dual time zone dial, with 70 scintillating diamonds set upon its sleek steel case.
Heure H Au Carré by Hermès Timepieces
For those seeking an all-white watch with serious fashion credentials, this 21mm steel timepiece showcases a chic diamond-set checkerboard dial.
Diamond-set obsidian dial
Swiss-made quartz movement
Changeable leather strap
The maison’s iconic 'Chaîne d'Ancre' motif
Sand-blasted dial
Lacquered dial
18-karat rose gold hands and indices
Sapphire crystal
Nestled in the heart of Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manufacture combines distinguished designers, watchmakers, enamelers, and engravers – each one an expert in their field. Together, they fuse flawless design with meticulous engineering, and have mastered true horological harmony for the past 188 years.
Dazzling Rendez- Vous Moon Automatic by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Vivacious lapis lazuli, lustrous mother-of-pearl and three carats of scintillating diamonds adorn this 36mm timepiece encased in 18-karat white gold.
Rendez-Vous Moon Automatic by Jaeger-LeCoultre
Debuted in 2012, the ‘Rendez-Vous’ collection boasts classic proportions, illustrated here with this 34mm, 18-karat gold model with moonphase complication.
Rendez-Vous Night & Day Automatic by Jaeger-LeCoultre
This 36mm timepiece crafted in 18-karat white gold evokes the midnight sky with its moonphase complication and 168 diamonds.
Rendez-Vous Moon Serenity Automatic by Jaeger-LeCoultre
This 36mm, 18-karat rose gold timepiece showcases an ethereal blue dial complete with a secret star function to mark a special date.
Elegant from every angle, this 34mm watch encased in 18-karat rose gold showcases 60 glistening diamonds and a classic leather strap.
Crafted in the maison’s workshop in the Swiss Jura mountains, this 34mm timepiece in 18-karat rose gold features a remarkable 204 components.
Swiss-made caliber 925B/1 automatic movement
Moonphase window
Mother-of-pearl dial
Swiss-made caliber 898B/1 automatic movement
Swiss-made caliber 935 automatic movement
Silvered guilloché dial
Swiss-made caliber 925A/1 automatic movement
Swiss-made caliber 898A/1 automatic movement
Founded in 1868, Swiss watchmaking maison IWC Schaffhausen has more than 150 years worth of experience crafting fine timepieces that push precision engineering to the very limit. The ‘Portofino’ watch embodies this horological excellence, while offering pared-back design codes that exude elegant classicism and subtle glamour.
Portofino Automatic by IWC Schaffhausen
This 34mm version of the classic ‘Portofino’ timepiece is made from stainless steel, and delivers a gleaming blue dial and scintillating diamond hour markers.
Inspired by the laid-back elegance of its namesake town, this 34mm timepiece showcases a silver-plated dial and a hand-painted, interchangeable strap.
Opulent 18-karat rose gold is expertly contrasted with the cool tones of a lavender strap and diamond-set bezel on this 37mm ‘Portofino’ timepiece.
Crafted in the brand’s Swiss workshop, this classic 37mm, 18-karat rose gold timepiece showcases a scintillating diamond-set bezel and black leather strap.
A modern interpretation of a 1980s icon, this 34mm ‘Portofino’ flaunts a verdant green dial with diamond hour markers and a soft leather strap.
Some 66 scintillating diamonds add a touch of glamour to the classic proportions of this 37mm ‘Portofino’, which also offers a steel case and sunburst dial.
Swiss-made caliber 35100 automatic movement
Swiss-made caliber 35111 automatic movement
Diamond-set bezel
Swiss-made caliber 35800 automatic movement
Alligator strap, crafted by Italian leather specialists Santoni
Date display
Fine jewelry and Swiss watchmaking maison Piaget is synonymous with avant-garde innovation and effortless glamour. Jackie O, Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren are just some of the style icons associated with the house, each drawn to the sculptural silhouettes, flawless gem-setting and imaginative artistry of every model.
Polo Automatic by Piaget
This 36mm sports-luxe-inspired timepiece is crafted from 18-karat rose gold and features an interchangeable leather strap.
Originally a men’s sports watch, this 36mm steel ‘Polo’ is given a scintillating update with its diamond-set bezel and gleaming diamond hour markers.
Debuted in 1989, the cushion-shaped case of this 36mm ‘Polo’ watch is sculptural and sleek, crafted here in stainless steel with a striking blue dial.
Limelight Gala Limited Edition by Piaget
Inspired by 1970s glamour, this 32mm timepiece in 18-karat rose gold features a lustrous mother-of-pearl dial framed by one carat of diamonds.
Altiplano Automatic by Piaget
Renowned for its ultra-thin caliber, this 35mm watch in 18-karat rose gold is as stylish as it is precise, complete with vibrant red leather strap.
This 35mm ‘Altiplano’ flaunts an ultra-thin silhouette, which was first pioneered by the maison in the 1950s, but is reinterpreted here in 18-karat rose gold with diamonds.
Swiss-made caliber 500P1 automatic movement
Date window
Sleek cushion-shaped case
Date aperture
Diamond-set case
Swiss-made caliber 690P quartz movement
Diamond-set ardillon buckle and alligator strap
Silvered dial
Swiss-made caliber 501P automatic movement
Swiss watchmaking maison Vacheron Constantin has manufactured fine timepieces for more than 265 years, yet each watch remains effortlessly on point for the modern woman. Inspired by the artistry of haute couture, the ‘Égérie’ is a dazzling new addition to an already impressive roster of horological heroes.
Égérie Automatic by Vacheron Constantin
Expertly crafted like an haute couture garment, this 18-karat white gold timepiece is delicately dusted with diamonds on the dial, case and buckle.
This 35mm steel watch showcases an elegant date aperture, a striking blue second hand and a diamond-set bezel.
A plissé-effect silvered opaline dial echoes the folds of a couture gown on this 37mm, 18-karat rose gold timepiece with elegant moonphase detailing.
The precious bezel of this 35mm timepiece is adorned with diamonds, adding extra gleam to its 18-karat rose gold case.
Égérie by Vacheron Constantin
Debuted in 2020, the distinctive italicized hour markers and 30mm tapestry effect dial are ‘Égérie’ signatures, encased here in 18-karat rose gold.
This 35mm steel watch is defined by the dial’s moonphase indicator, striking blue hands and diamond-set bezel.
Swiss-made caliber 1088 automatic movement
Swiss-made caliber 1088L automatic movement
Moonstone cabochon crown
Interchangeable alligator strap
Swiss-made caliber 1207 quartz movement
Silvered guilloché opaline dial
Edwina Hilton
The Vacheron Constantin ‘Égérie’ watch is a really versatile piece that you can dress up or dress down – you can even change the strap yourself. I like to pair the rose gold face with pieces of rose gold fine jewelry, such as this Anita Ko rose gold ‘Huggies’ hoop earring, or mix in different gold tones with Spinelli Kilcollin’s contemporary ‘Galaxy’ ring. The ‘Égérie’ is the perfect piece to wear with a neutral palette, too – this taupe Isabel Marant sweater and white pair of jeans by Re/Done is perfect for a transitional wardrobe look.”
Watches
Buyer, fine jewelry and watches
Libby Page
Senior market editor
This outfit is the ultimate everyday look that I can easily wear on repeat and style in several ways. A crisp white shirt is always my starting point for an outfit, and this one from emerging designer HommeGirls is a style that I haven’t stopped wearing since I bought it. I’ll add relaxed, navy (the new black) wide-leg pants from Max Mara, a pea coat from Valentino, Loewe’s luxurious new ‘Goya’ bag, and finally a sneaker from The Row for that comfortable, casual attitude we want everything to ooze these days. The perfect finishing touch is Piaget’s rose gold ‘Polo’ watch, which will instantly elevate any look and add polish to an everyday ensemble. It’s the perfect balance of masculine sports-luxe meets feminine styling, with the rose gold bracelet and diamond-set bezel adding an oh-so-subtle bling.”
Charlie Boyd
Fine jewelry and watches editor
After so long without anywhere to go or any reason to dress up, I want to indulge in the pure, unadulterated luxury of an evening dress paired with a swathe of fine jewels – complemented by a time-telling jewel. The Hermès Timepieces’ ‘Faubourg’ is peppered with precious pink and white sapphires in an ombre blush effect from dial to buckle, making it the perfect companion for an evening look. Jenny Packham’s glittered tulle gown is full-on fantasy dressing at its finest, so it deserves fairy-tale accessories like Olympia Le-Tan’s ‘Cinderella’ clutch bag and Sophie Bille-Brahe’s Botticelli-inspired pink pearl earrings. But there’s never a reason to take the ‘Faubourg’ off – the morning after a black-tie event, I would wear it with a slouchy T-shirt and straight-leg jeans.”
Emily Wansbrough
Senior buyer, fine jewelry and watches
From the moment I saw Cartier’s Watches & Wonders launches for 2021, this ‘Tank Louis’ design really stood out. It’s so refreshing to see such a timeless ‘Tank’ crafted in gold and complemented by bold color. The claret strap is distinctive but still classic enough for everyday wear, and it is also available in a chic navy blue style. This fall, I’ll be wearing it with timeless yellow gold fine jewelry, like Anita Ko’s 18-karat gold choker and a Repossi ear cuff – precious accents to Saint Laurent’s checked blazer and Manolo Blahnik’s ‘Maysale’ mules.”
Kay Barron
Fashion director
When it comes to my personal style, I have something of a uniform that has remained largely unchanged for years. I choose classic over trends, a neutral palette over brights (give or take a flash here and there), and I don’t like anything too girly. Which is why the IWC Schaffhausen ‘Portofino’ ticks all the boxes. Offering an oversized face that’s not too much of a statement plus a subtle tan leather strap, it is eye-catching but not overwhelming; feminine but definitely not delicate. It’s also strong enough to hold its own against a heavy black knit and leather pants – pieces that are always part of my wardrobe. I also err on the side of understated when it comes to jewelry, so I would leave my left hand free of all bar the watch, while highlighting the right with a Spinelli Kilcollin ring, and small diamond hoops in my ears. After all, the ‘Portofino’ says so much, so quietly.”
Harriet Haskell-Thomas
Global head of styling
I love the statement that this Jaeger-LeCoultre watch makes – it feels more like a piece of jewelry than a functional watch. A piece as special as this deserves an outfit that allows it to stand out, so I would style it with something low-key yet elegant, like this dress by Christopher Esber and these simple strappy heels by The Attico. The black and blue feels modern together, and this white Loewe bag echoes the detail on the watch face. I would stack it with some contemporary gold chain bracelets by LA-based brand Shay for a final flourish.”
As technology evolves and we become more dependent on screens, we’ll be yearning for analog items like watches. Try taking a walk without your cell phone [and] rely on your watch to keep the time – it’s a good antidote to tech burnout
Furthermore, a watch is rarely just a timepiece these days. “Watches are often brushed off as unnecessary, excessive luxury items in the digital age,” says Brynn Wallner, the founder of Dimepiece – a new digital platform that creates watch-themed content for the next generation of enthusiasts. “What I’ve found, however, is that so often – especially amongst women – watches are more than an object: they’re tangible items that can represent resilience, family history, self-worth,” she explains. “They feel more personal and intimate than your average luxury item,” she adds. Wallner recently bought her first luxury timepiece (a Cartier ‘Tank Française’) to celebrate both her 31st birthday and her success in the industry so far. “It’s especially compelling when a woman buys herself a watch in honor of a promotion or some other personal achievement,” Wallner says. “I also think that as technology evolves and we become more dependent on screens, we’ll be yearning for analog items like watches. Try taking a walk without your cell phone [and] rely on your watch to keep the time – it’s a good antidote to tech burnout.”
Watch purchases are often linked to momentous events and this has cemented their value as precious items. “My favorite part about collecting fine timepieces is the relationship you create with a watch and the sentiment of how it can be passed down,” says Reve Dagher, the tastemaker behind @istealwatches. “I think it’s beautiful when you link a feeling to a watch; it’s like remembering your first love when you listen to an old song or recalling a place when you smell that particular scent – it triggers a beautiful memory,” she explains. The collector’s first luxury watch was a graduation gift from her parents, but she has since received timepieces to celebrate her wedding and the birth of her son, too. Wallner maintains that this symbolism means we are much more likely to pass a watch down generations than a handbag, for example. “Due to the price point, you have to be particularly intentional with the purchase and, for most consumers, it’s an item that will transcend generations,” she explains. “[Watches] are prestigious items that endure in quality, performance (and hopefully value), and also happen to be extremely portable,” agrees Wong. “That makes them ideal intergenerational artifacts [and] potential heirloom objects,” she says. “Also, they literally record time – people enjoy the poetry of using a timekeeper to mark a memorable period in their lives.” This poetic quality is perhaps the most potent weapon a watch has to remain relevant today. The digital age has undoubtedly changed many things, but poetry, art and beauty are still intrinsic treasures to us all, enabling fine watches to truly stand the test of time.
n any given day, many of us will have three or more devices in our handbag that we can use to tell the time – think a personal smartphone, work cell, tablet and maybe a fitness tracker. These days, there really is no excuse for being late – even if you don’t wear a watch. However, according to data
captured by retail analyst GfK, the total value of UK-based watch sales increased by 34 percent in July 2021 compared to the same month in 2019. Despite these troubled times, it appears business is booming. But why are we still turning to watches when their functional role has all but been usurped? “In my opinion, functionality has never been the primary reason for purchasing fine watches,” says Misha Daud of @watch_fashionista – a keen collector with an impressive roster of fine timepieces. “Watches have always been purchased for their beauty, their prestige and a genuine passion for exquisite craftsmanship and horology,” she explains. Suzanne Wong, a notable watch journalist who received her first timepiece aged eight (an analogue Casio on a black rubber strap) agrees that watches are no different to any other luxury item when it comes to their whys and wherefores. “We buy them for the same reason that we wear chic outfits, even though we could probably just march around in plain boiler suits every day; [for] the same reason that we eat complicated, hard-to-prepare food even though there are nutritionally complete meal units available,” she explains. “It’s for the sheer pleasure of it – there will always be people who delight in fashion and cuisine; there will always be people fascinated by things with spinning gears that whir and click,” she concludes. Wong also points out that traditional portraiture didn’t disappear with the advent of photography, it simply became more prestigious and more closely associated with the expression of personal identity. Perhaps the same can now be said of fine timepieces. A rise in commissions for bespoke and customized watches suggests this may be the case, with some collectors turning to fine jewelry designers such as Jacquie Aiche and Shay to give their iconic Swiss timepieces an individual stamp, replacing standard-issue elements with more unusual materials, sourcing alternative straps or unusual colorways – an off-line service that NET-A-PORTER’s Personal Shopping team are on hand to facilitate. “The market is getting more sophisticated, and buyers with mature consumption sensibilities [are] naturally gravitating towards purchases that more closely reflect their identities,” explains Wong. “Often, that leads to a rise in popularity of custom-made or customizable products. For those who value their status [as] a connoisseur, a custom watch can also signal a certain level of insider knowledge – it’s like asking for something on the secret menu at Starbucks,” she quips.
n any given day, many of us will have three or more devices in our handbag that we can use to tell the time – think
a personal smartphone, work cell, tablet and maybe a fitness tracker. These days, there really is no excuse for being late – even if you don’t wear a watch. However, according to data captured by retail analyst GfK, the total value of UK-based watch sales increased by 34 percent in July 2021 compared to the same month in 2019. Despite these troubled times, it appears business is booming. But why are we still turning to watches when their functional role has all but been usurped? “In my opinion, functionality has never been the primary reason for purchasing fine watches,” says Misha Daud of @watch_fashionista – a keen collector with an impressive roster of fine timepieces. “Watches have always been purchased for their beauty, their prestige and a genuine passion for exquisite craftsmanship and horology,” she explains. Suzanne Wong, a notable watch journalist who received her first timepiece aged eight (an analogue Casio on a black rubber strap) agrees that watches are no different to any other luxury item when it comes to their whys and wherefores. “We buy them for the same reason that we wear chic outfits, even though we could probably just march around in plain boiler suits every day; [for] the same reason that we eat complicated, hard-to-prepare food even though there are nutritionally complete meal units available,” she explains. “It’s for the sheer pleasure of it – there will always be people who delight in fashion and cuisine; there will always be people fascinated by things with spinning gears that whir and click,” she concludes. Wong also points out that traditional portraiture didn’t disappear with the advent of photography, it simply became more prestigious and more closely associated with the expression of personal identity. Perhaps the same can now be said of fine timepieces. A rise in commissions for bespoke and customized watches suggests this may be the case, with some collectors turning to fine jewelry designers such as Jacquie Aiche and Shay to give their iconic Swiss timepieces an individual stamp, replacing standard-issue elements with more unusual materials, sourcing alternative straps or unusual colorways – an off-line service that NET-A-PORTER’s Personal Shopping team are on hand to facilitate. “The market is getting more sophisticated, and buyers with mature consumption sensibilities [are] naturally gravitating towards purchases that more closely reflect their identities,” explains Wong. “Often, that leads to a rise in popularity of custom-made or customizable products. For those who value their status [as] a connoisseur, a custom watch can also signal a certain level of insider knowledge – it’s like asking for something on the secret menu at Starbucks,” she quips.
