INTERNATIONAL

Finland is a study in contrasts. Endless sunshine in summer gives way to long, dark winters, especially in the country’s most northern and remote Lapland region. But winter creates a brilliant backdrop for the aurora borealis and seasonal spectacles in Santa’s hometown of Rovaniemi. And south in the country’s compact seaside capital of Helsinki, a vibrant culinary and shopping scene, diverse architectural styles, and creative energy burn bright.

WRITER ALLISON VANCURA

Catch an Astral Show

WATCH THE AURORA BOREALIS SWOOP AND SWAY IN NATURE’S MOST SPECTACULAR BALLET, AND YOU MAY BE INCLINED TO GIVE A STANDING OVATION.

Finnish legend has it that the northern lights were created by an elusive Firefox sweeping its bushy tail through the sky, creating magnificent ribbons of white, emerald, and even amethyst overhead. In the country’s largest and northernmost region of Lapland, this natural phenomenon is visible from late August through early April — but bear in mind, there’s no guarantee you’ll see them, and the hunt is part of the fun! Outfitters throughout Rovaniemi like Beyond Arctic closely monitor auroras before and during your tour to give you the best chance of seeing a show. While you wait, you’ll roast Finnish sausages and marshmallows over an open flame while warming up in a traditional wooden wilderness hut called a laavu. TIP: Traveling with little ones? Slow Travel Green and Blue specializes in family-friendly aurora tours so everyone in the family can take part in the event. They’ll even provide car seats.

Visit Santa Claus Village

EVOKING FEELINGS OF CHILDLIKE WONDER IS MISSION-CRITICAL IN SANTA CLAUS VILLAGE, WHERE CHRISTMAS IS CELEBRATED 24/7/365. WHAT ELSE WOULD YOU EXPECT FROM SANTA’S HOMETOWN?

Just 5 miles from Rovaniemi’s city center, Santa Claus Village is a small, world-famous holiday destination that sits on the Arctic Circle. (It’s so famous, in fact, that inside Santa’s Christmas House, a photo wall featuring celebs like Conan O'Brien, Gordon Ramsay, and the Spice Girls with the jolly man in red will catch your eye.) You’ll also see Santa’s big metal Time Machine that ensures he can make it to all the kids in the world each Christmas. While you’re at the village, shop for trinkets at souvenir shops, meet the elves, spend time with Santa’s reindeer, and visit Santa’s on-site post office. Santa receives about half a million letters from people all over the world each year — and at this special post office, grown-ups can send letters from Santa so loved ones can experience the holiday magic wherever they are (and know they’re on the nice list!). The orange mailbox is for regular mail; the red one collects letters to be sent just before Christmas. HISTORICAL FACT: Roosevelt Cottage, now a souvenir shop, is one of the first buildings you’ll pass in Santa Claus Village. Rovaniemi was razed in World War II, and in 1950, former first lady Eleanor Roosevelt wished to monitor the city’s post-war reconstruction and cross the Arctic Circle herself. This news reached Rovaniemi just two weeks before her arrival, and the cabin was constructed quickly for her welcoming ceremony. NOW STREAMING: Watch the main square of Santa Claus Village and the Arctic Circle year-round on the village’s live feed.

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View Arctic Wildlife

YOU MAY SPOT SIGNS OF REINDEER, WOLVES, WOLVERINES, AND EAGLES IN THE WILD, BUT THESE EXPERIENCES WILL BRING YOU EVEN CLOSER.

Lapland’s indigenous Sámi people have herded reindeer here for centuries. Most reindeer roam freely throughout the region, though a small squad of Santa’s trusted helpers are available for sleigh rides right by his village at the Arctic Circle. During the Reindeer Path ride (a short-and-sweet 5-minute loop) you’ll dash through the snow in a one-reindeer open sleigh. Longer excursions are also available if you make reservations in advance. Approximately 120 purebred working and showline Siberian huskies live at the Arctic Circle Husky Park, a staple of the area since 1995. Meet and greet the dogs — all of whom have names like Bellatrix and Hermione plus accompanying bios — during a visit. You’ll also have a chance to ride a cart or sled pulled by a team of eight dogs. Find more than 50 northern and Arctic species, including Finland’s only polar bear, at Ranua Wildlife Park. This Arctic zoo is located about an hour south of Rovaniemi via route 78 and can be reached by bus or car.

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Hike Amid Frozen Waterfalls

IN THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE LAPLAND REGION, THE KOROUOMA NATURE RESERVE IS ONE OF FINLAND’S MOST INCREDIBLE DESTINATIONS TO EXPERIENCE ARCTIC WILDERNESS.

With dramatic walls carved by Mother Nature over 600 million years, Korouoma Canyon becomes a postcard-perfect wonderland in winter. If you have your own vehicle, the drive from Rovaniemi takes about an hour and a half, or you can book a small-group excursion with Wild About Lapland, which includes transport, lunch, and gear rentals. On a guided hike through the taiga forest, you’ll follow former horse roads through spruce, pine, and birch heaths to Finland’s largest, most spectacular ice formations along the River Korojoki. Look up — you may even see ice climbers scaling the frozen falls.

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Embrace the Culinary Scene

THE LAPPISH CAPITAL IS HONING A REPUTATION AS AN ENTICING FINE-DINING HOT SPOT WITH AN EMPHASIS ON NATIVE INGREDIENTS.

The region's distinct seasons influence menus at places like Arctic Restaurant, where Rovaniemi’s passion-driven culinary creators plate up dishes like cured whitefish with horseradish sour cream and sauteed reindeer with lingonberries. From November to March, diners can cozy up for a meal inside a heated glass igloo at Gustav Kitchen and Bar. The menu has a handful of hot and cold items, but it’s filled with comforting, seasonal selections like porcini mushroom risotto and lamb shank with parsnip puree. Pass through the Santa Claus Reindeer resort in Santa Claus Village to find Lapland Restaurant Kotahovi, then nab a table by the open fire at its center. This tiny lunch spot serves traditional Lappish fare (such as arctic salmon flavored with juniper berries, plus salmon and wild mushroom soups) and operates on a first-come, first-served basis from November to February.

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Pick Up a Lappish Souvenir

THERE IS A STRONG COMMERCIAL PRESENCE IN ROVANIEMI’S CITY CENTER, BUT YOU’LL FIND FASCINATING SHOPS FILLED WITH ARCTIC HANDICRAFTS, TOO.

Sámi and Lappish works fill shelves at Lauri — and if you’re lucky, you may even see artisans making chopsticks and guitar picks out of materials like reindeer antler, leather, and birch in the adjoining studio. Customize a beautiful wilderness knife at Marttiini. Or find design products, books, and finely crafted wares connected to the north at Arktikum’s museum shop. You don’t need a ticket to enter, but do spend a couple of hours getting a perspective on Lapland’s people, nature, and wildlife at this science center and museum if your schedule allows it.

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WINTER TRAVEL TIPS

Winter in Lapland means on with the snow! The entire region is a playground for frosty, festive fun, but Santa’s hometown of Rovaniemi, which sits right on the Arctic Circle, is a truly enchanting experience.

SEASONAL SNAPSHOT: Snowy

GETTING AROUND: Rovaniemi is compact and walkable. Use the Line 8 bus or a taxi to get around faster if you don’t have your own vehicle.

AVERAGE WINTER TEMPERATURE: 14°F - 16°F (December to February)

Rovaniemi

REGIONAL TRAVEL TIP: If you fly into Helsinki, the Santa Claus Express departs from Helsinki Central station. Book a modest sleeper car with a private bathroom and wake up in the Arctic Circle the next morning. You can also take a flight between Helsinki and Rovaniemi, which takes about one hour, 20 minutes. Remember, TSA PreCheck doesn’t apply once you’re outside of the U.S., so you’ll need to check large bags and limit any liquids to 100-milliliter containers.

CURRENCY: Euro

HOURS OF DAYLIGHT: 2.5 hours (December) to 8 hours (February)

Go Museum-Hopping

STEP OUT ONTO ITS COBBLED STREETS AND IT’S EASY TO SEE HELSINKI IS A HAVEN FOR DESIGN MAVENS. YOU’LL GET THE PICTURE AT THESE EXCEPTIONAL MUSEUMS.

In a Neo-Renaissance-style building across from the Helsinki Central train station, Ateneum museum is an homage to Finnish works. It holds the country’s largest collection of them, plus masterpieces from artists like Vincent van Gogh, Rolf Nesch, and Edvard Munch. Gothic Modern, a current international exhibit, explores themes of life, death, and enlightenment through the 19th and 20th centuries. Do Eero Aarnio chairs, Marimekko dresses, and displays of Fiskars scissors make your heart pitter-patter? Then you'll want to get an in-depth look at Finnish designs at Helsinki’s Design Museum, a fabled collection of 75,000 beautifully designed and practical objects that catalogs Finland’s industrial arts. Curated soundscapes and immersive sets spark reflection at Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma. Pauline Curnier Jardin’s carnival-like exhibit seems inviting and playful on the surface, but up-close views reveal a darker commentary on marginalized voices. A tower of discarded boom boxes and electronic devices, candid snapshots of people at rest, and utilitarian household objects are all part of Feels Like Home, which explores what makes people feel connected to communities and places.

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Embrace Sauna Culture

SAUNA CULTURE HAS DEEP ROOTS IN FINLAND, AND THE EXPERIENCE IS REVERED AS PHYSICALLY AND EMOTIONALLY HEALING.

Even in inclement weather, Helsinki is best seen on foot — and it doesn’t take long to rack up 20,000 steps. When you’re ready to give your muscles a rest, do as the Finns do and hit the sauna. You’ll find public saunas everywhere in Helsinki — even within the one dark car of the SkyWheel perched along the waterfront. At Löyly, a word meaning the steam that rises from water poured on stones, visitors can take in some heat then take a rejuvenating cold plunge into the Baltic Sea. (In winter, you can even try ice-hole swimming!) Reserve your two-hour sauna session in advance, which gives access to a traditional smoke sauna and a wood-burning sauna. Afterward, order a bowl of salmon soup or a lager at the on-site restaurant and bar overlooking the rocky shoreline.

Shower immediately before entering the sauna. / You don’t have to go nude — wear a swimsuit or towel instead. / There’s no rule for how often to throw water on the stones, but do make sure the steam level is comfortable for everyone present. / Remember to hydrate!

SAUNA BASICS

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Eat Your Way Through

FOR A SNACK-SIZE CITY, HELSINKI’S APPETITE FOR CULINARY EXCELLENCE IS QUITE HEARTY. SIMPLE INGREDIENTS THAT NOD TO FINNISH ROOTS AND ARTFUL PRESENTATIONS TRANSLATE INTO MEMORABLE MEALS.

Tucked into an old villa on the edge of Kaivopuisto park, Restaurant Elm is a warm and welcoming neighborhood joint. Mismatched wood chairs and flatweave rugs create a homey backdrop for beautifully presented plates of salty-crunchy beef tartare, succulent octopus, mussels in white wine sauce, and gnocchi with taleggio cheese. Kappeli, meaning chapel, was once a place for Finnish artists to congregate and create. Nowadays, this glass-encased restaurant, bar, and cafe on the posh Esplanadi park is best known for traditional Finnish dining with a glitzy twist: The changing seasons are reflected in menu items like herb and onion croquette with pumpkin puree and marinated artichoke; whitefish tartare with fennel-cress salad and dill mayonnaise; and Finnish apple braised in cinnamon butter and almond ice cream. Yes Yes Yes caters to hungry vegetarians and vegans, but we can assure you: Even meat-lovers will love it. The menu changes frequently, though options such as Halloumi fries with red currants, lemon yogurt, and za’atar, or flatbread topped with Comté custard, Brussels sprouts, and jalapeno salsa give you a taste of its flavor-packed offerings. The cocktail lineup leans sweet and spicy, and drinks are topped with beautiful floral garnishes.

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Cool Watering Holes

FOUR FUN SPOTS FOR A NIGHTCAP.

Get the Lay of the Land

CARL LUDVIG ENGEL, ALVAR AALTO, AND ELIEL SAARINEN ARE A FEW OF THE BIG-NAME ARCHITECTS BEHIND HELSINKI’S FAMOUS BUILDINGS. ACROSS THE CITY, THE INTRICATE ART NOUVEAU AND FUNCTIONAL MODERN DESIGNS ARE WELL-REPRESENTED.

Finland was ruled by Sweden for nearly seven centuries before becoming a Russian grand duchy in 1809. Only in 1917, after the Russian Revolution, did Finland gain its independence. As you wander Helsinki’s cobblestone streets, you’ll notice vestiges of its past and present woven all around — monuments to Swedish and Russian rulers and street signs in Finnish and Swedish, for example — and a personalized tour with Tours by Locals can help you gain a deeper appreciation of its history, culture, and architecture. You’re sure to see Carl Ludvig Engel’s teal-dome Helsinki Cathedral that anchors the northern side of Senate Square, as well as the Eliel Saarinen-designed Helsinki Central railway station, whose grandiose granite statues greet arrivals. And don’t miss Alvar Aalto’s stately Finlandia Hall event venue. Designed by brothers and architects Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen, Temppeliaukio Church is a subterranean church carved into a massive granite rock outcrop. Inside, experience its superb acoustics and see the copper-coiled ceiling and glass windows that provide natural illumination. Another standout is OODI, Helsinki’s central library, designed by ALA Architects to commemorate the nation’s 100th birthday. It’s a highly functional multilevel design featuring communal sewing machines, rentable musical instruments and play kits, gaming rooms, gathering spaces, and a cafe. A black spiral staircase features a collage of crowd-sourced words to remind visitors that the library is for everyone.

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Shop for Everyone on Your List

STOCK UP ON TEXTILES, HANDICRAFTS, LOCAL DELICACIES, AND ALL THINGS MOOMIN AND MARIMEKKO WHILE YOU’RE IN HELSINKI — AND SAVE TIME FOR A LITTLE WINDOW SHOPPING.

Stockmann department store has been an institution for upscale apparel and home goods at this location in the city center since 1930. During the holidays, intricate window displays of woodland creatures and elves that move enchant shoppers of all ages and hint at presents waiting inside. Helsinki’s Design District is a network of 200-plus fashion boutiques, antiques shops, vintage wares, art galleries, hip restaurants, and museums encompassing 25 streets. Shop for cards, Washi tape, and planners at Papershop. (You can even post a letter from the shop’s forest-green mailbox by the register.) Find dozens of children’s toys and delights — including an adorable play corner — at colorful Zicco. Indie books, art, and magazines await at Nide Bookstore. Browse indoor stalls at the Helsinki Old Market Hall — Helsinki’s oldest — for shellfish, reindeer pelts, and spices. Hakaniemi Market Square is a bustling outdoor market where vendors sell foraged berries and mushrooms, seasonal flowers, cinnamon rolls, coffee, woven baskets, and secondhand clothing. Kauppatori is perhaps the city’s most internationally famous open-air market, located on the edge of the water near Senate Square. Here, you’ll find items like sauna hats, wool mittens, leather flyswatters, lightweight and versatile wood kuksa cups, and wooden buttons.

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Side Trips

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